2020 Domane Gravel build

Great job!!!  It looks awesome!!!
Are you running a 140 mm rotor on the front?   I prefer 160/140 set up, but of course it's personal preference.
By the way, when the rotor wears out, place it with the Dura Ace ones, as I think the black colored rotor would look outstanding on your bike.
I run my Dfly unit in the seatube for all my Di2 equipped bikes.:-)

cpark wrote:Great job!!!  It looks awesome!!!
Are you running a 140 mm rotor on the front?   I prefer 160/140 set up, but of course it's personal preference.
By the way, when the rotor wears out, place it with the Dura Ace ones, as I think the black colored rotor would look outstanding on your bike.
I run my Dfly unit in the seatube for all my Di2 equipped bikes.:-)

Thanks. Happy to report that it rides as good as looks. Gravel ride with a local group on New Years day. Several comments of  "Is that a road bike?"

140 rotors F&R on this, my road  and two cross bikes. Never found it to be insufficient. 160 lbs and set a few downhill KOM's in gravel and road races. IOW, I descend quicker than most riders and still have plenty of brakes. I do use the K04ti (metal pad with titanium backing plate) on all my bikes. More bite and they transfer less heat to the caliper than the aluminum backed pads. I have never worn out a rotor in 25 years or racing disc braked bikes so not likely to swap these any time soon 🙂. Honestly these rotors were just whatever matching I had laying around.  I race cross so that's 7-8 wheelsets with various tubulars for different conditions. Piles of rotors. My Cervelo S5 has D/A rotors and yah, they look snazzy.

I install the wireless transmitter where it is readily accessible and can be disconnected for travel. I find that works for my usage. If you don't travel with the bike, internal is definitely cleaner.

Wow.  That is beautiful!   Domane SLR’s are awesome.   Were you able to order the cross chai set and large cassette via project 1?   How bout the wheels?   What Bontrager wheels did you go with?   

I didn’t think an Ultegra derailleur would handle that big cassette going 2x. interesting. 

GSPChilliwack wrote:I didn’t think an Ultegra derailleur would handle that big cassette going 2x. interesting. 

It doesn't. Skips a bit in the 11. Perfect in every other gear including the 40 even cross chain. Rated 34t max cog. Going to try the GRX derailleur which is rated for a 42 cog.

Someone else suggested running a larger set of pulleys on the RX805 derailleur. Increases the chain wrap by one link which might get rid of the skipping.

GSPChilliwack wrote:I didn’t think an Ultegra derailleur would handle that big cassette going 2x. interesting. 

Shimano is pretty conservative about max capacity. 
Having said that there a couple variables that can determined the outcome:
1) The position of rear derailleur hanger can make a big difference.
2) Low total capacity (large ring tooth count-small ring, then add it to largest cog-smallest cog) can make the drivetrain run more smooth.   I'm not a huge fan of 16T drop in the front.
3) If all fails, try something like a Wolf Tooth Road Link or a Road Link DM.   Just be sure to stay with the RD Total capacity.

By the way, I think you can get away with 11-36 (Sram cassette) or 11-34 for DK200, as it sounds like you a pretty fit guy. 
I set up a Diverge S-Works for my shop owner for DK200 in 2019 with 50/34 (Dura Ace) with 11-34, and he said he didn't use 50/11 or 34/34 much.   He finished in the 9th in his age category.  For this year he wants go faster, so I built him a 3T Exploro with Sram AXS 1X with 48/10-50.  He loves the build except that he hardly ever uses 48/50, and 48/10 is unnecessary, but Sram doesn't make 10-45 or 11-45 in 12 sp.....

Yah. I ran an 11-32 at DK200 last year and it was perfect. 11-40 is for Rock Cobbler and Crusher in the Tushar.

I found a larger upper pulley to try on the RX805 RD to try to eliminate the skipping in the 11. I'll report back if that works. The new GRX 815 RD is virtually identical  spec/dimensions as the RX805 so I don't think it would solve the problem. Frustrating that the XTR Di2 RD I have in my spares would work but Shimano's software won't let it function if there is a road FD plugged in. Of course the frame is a braze-on style mount and oval seat tube so no way to fit an XTR FD. 12t drop in front on my bike.

Such is the current state of gravel drivetrains. The perfect one does not exist yet and riders are still having to build their own hybrids.

Got the 40c Ramblers fitted, 41.2mm actual on these rims. Roughly 6mm clearance on either side, both front and rear. That's at widest point. Chainstay clearance is curved so less clearance at other points on casing. Plenty for slightly muddy conditions. Wouldn't want to go much bigger in heavy mud. Guessing you could safely stuff a 44mm tire in there in dry conditions for a light to medium rider. Heavy riders tend to flex wheels more thus more likely to get tire rub out of the saddle.   
  

First big off road ride. 61 miles, 9100' gain. Hero dirt, cool weather, spectacular blue SoCal sky. My orange hotness. Bliss.
 

cpark wrote: ..If all fails, try something like a Wolf Tooth Road Link or a Road Link DM.   Just be sure to stay with the RD Total capacity.

I have use the Goatlink on my old gravel build with success. Put a Roadlink DM on. Improved but still not 100%. Plain RX805 would skip in the 46/11 frequently at around 250 watts. With China/Amazon 13T upper pulley that bumped to about 300w. With the Roadlink DM and 13T upper pulley that's about 350w. At 250 watts in will still occasionally skip but like once every 20 seconds or so. I'll race it like this regardless as that slight issue is something I can live with to get the range.

I could survive most events with a 44T which would create a teeny bit more wrap in the 11, but I really like the 46 for road sections. Not sure what else to try. Maybe someone will hack the e-tube software so I can run my XTR RD with the Dura Ace FD. That would be perfect.

Update on Wolftooth Roadlink DM:

It works. Turns out my 11-40 XTR cassette lockring was loose. Torqued down and the skipping in 46x11 is gone, even when pounding out 500 watts. Range is 500%, 23.49 to 115.53 gear-inches. One could achieve about the same with a 1x12 but with wider gaps between gear ratios.

It's perfect🙂

SO SICK! I was contemplating jumping over to this from my Checkpoint. Trek gave me $2000 credit on a warranty replacement. I said I'll take a Domane SLR frame and fork please! They said "You will owe use $1800 more." Well since I just bought another new gravel bike, I said send me a new SL6 Checkpoint. They did for nothing too! Definitely a beautiful rig you go there!

 
Rain all this week so I got the Bontrager polycarbonate fenders mounted up with 32c Pirelli Velo TLR on some old Reynolds ATR's with 11-28. The Velo TLR's are freakin indestructible. Nice not to be so worried about flatting in the rain. Glad the frame has rack and fender mounts. Keep me from trashing my race bike (Cervelo S5 disc) in the rain.

Update after a few thousand miles of mostly offroad use. Had the nuts that hold the isospeed trunion in place come loose. Misdiagnosed as a loose headset so I rode on it for a while that way. Doh. Thankfully, the nuts (#22 in schematic) have a conical versus shank seat design. So the bosses in the frame weren't ovalized. A bit of tiny carbon fragments but I escaped a major frame repair. The nuts have an integral eccentric washer that keeps them from spinning as you turn the center bolt (#21) to torque down. The nuts were blue loctited from the factory. Cleaned and red loctited, then probably over torqued a wee bit. No play, all good now. The bolts on my Boone with front isospeed never came loose with maybe 3x the miles and a bunch of cross races. Maybe a different fastener design on the '18 Boone, dunno

So if you have a 2020 Domane and ride it off road, might not be a bad idea to preemptively pull those fasteners and red loctite them to factory torque spec.

 

From Belgian Waffle Ride - Cedar City, UT. Oct 17
   

the cheaper sl actually looks better, too much curves at the seattube junction on the slr

https://youtu.be/5b0qteUq4x8

How close are you to front derailleur clearance with the rear tire?  Usually the limiting factor in the rear with a 2X is the tire interfering into the FD, which is usually at 40 to 42mm.

Emilio700 wrote:Got the 40c Ramblers fitted, 41.2mm actual on these rims. Roughly 6mm clearance on either side, both front and rear. That's at widest point. Chainstay clearance is curved so less clearance at other points on casing. Plenty for slightly muddy conditions. Wouldn't want to go much bigger in heavy mud. Guessing you could safely stuff a 44mm tire in there in dry conditions for a light to medium rider. Heavy riders tend to flex wheels more thus more likely to get tire rub out of the saddle.