Be careful! Many of us seniors will tell you that not keeping up is a spouse's red herring for simply not really wanting to bike...or at least as a shared activity! I bought my wife a spiffy bike many years ago. Sold it this past summer with less than 100mi on it! She still doesn't know...and may never remember to ask?
Regarding gravel gearing, for a long time I never figured I'd need anything lower than the 34/32 on my Roker... Then along came a ride outside Boulder, Colorado with an extended double track stair step climb at over 20% grade. I was so wishing for two gear steps lower. On a mountain bike this would've been easy, just drop into a low gear and spin. No problem. So for me a 30/34 or maybe 30/36 will be in the future as I'm sure I'll be back doing more steep stuff.
But to put this in perspective, I've been riding gravel since '95 and this is the first time I've found myself wanting/needing gearing that low so I'm pretty certain there are a lot of folks who will do just fine with the traditional 50/34 compact cranks and an 11/34 cassette.
NoCoGreg wrote:Regarding gravel gearing, for a long time I never figured I'd need anything lower than the 34/32 on my Roker... Then along came a ride outside Boulder, Colorado with an extended double track stair step climb at over 20% grade.
Marin Avenue in Berkeley as described by bayareabikerides.net: Past Euclid is where the road gets really absurd. The average grade from Euclid to Grizzly Peak is 22%, but that includes the flat intersections. Actual riding is closer to 25%, and that first block is probably near 30%. I don't care how low your gears are, or how light your bike is; either you have the leg strength and aerobic capacity to ride up this hill, or you don't. Good friggin' luck.
About 40 years ago I made it up one block then quit before I blew my kneecaps into the next county. I should have been scared off by the map where Marin is the only straight line in a sea of switchbacks.
Can you guys help me? I'd changed both my Rival and Ultegra 50/34 rings to 46/36 because I was told that this "cross" duo has tooth ramps that are mated. Indeed they shift superbly, unlike when I tried the new 46 with the original 34. Maybe I just didn't trim correctly? I run 1:1 with a modified 36/12 11sp rear, but wonder if I'd benefit with that 6% higher climbing delta by trying the 34 again? Is there any truth to the "matched 46/36 cross" claim? I think even the rings has lingo on it suggesting this partnership. Of course I could just slip the 34t back on...and may do so...unless you suggest I leave the 46/36 alone and just walk up the steepest climbs. Thanks from an old fart who struggles on longish climbs.
TheSubaruGuru wrote:Of course I could just slip the 34t back on...and may do so...unless you suggest I leave the 46/36 alone and just walk up the steepest climbs.
The difference between 34 and 36 is only about 6%. In my case (old and slow) that's perceptible but not the difference between riding and walking.
The 6% delta is about half a gear, so I figure it gets me barely another -0.5mph gruntability on steepest sections. But like you say I might as well walk at that point. Do folks really use 30t (or other underdriven ratios) to spin up hills at 5mph?
TheSubaruGuru wrote: But like you say I might as well walk at that point. Do folks really use 30t (or other underdriven ratios) to spin up hills at 5mph?
To me Walking < Riding and I am learning to be humble as I pass 50 years old. I started out with 30x34 rear in my first gravel ride and in my first race, blew my whole wad getting up the first 30 minutes of the first climb. I went back the next year with 30x42 and still went too hard. 26x42 this past year finally got me up at my goal wattage and evened out my effort. The year with 30x42 I was averaging 215 watts but fading to 185 by the top (It is about 8 miles and 3,500 feet from 6-9,500 feet altitude). The next year I kept it an even 190 from bottom to top and felt a lot better. So yeah, people definately crawl up climbs at 5 mph. TI passed a bunch of guys on 34x30 doing about 40 rpm.
Yup. I use the 30x34 quite a bit, especially toward the end of a long ride when I’m tired. Stronger, younger folks with better knees might do differently. ;-)
TheSubaruGuru wrote:The 6% delta is about half a gear, so I figure it gets me barely another -0.5mph gruntability on steepest sections. But like you say I might as well walk at that point. Do folks really use 30t (or other underdriven ratios) to spin up hills at 5mph?
Yes, people really do spin up hills at 5mph. I'll be riding TransVA this year. Its 550 miles with 45000 feet of climbing. If I were to walk up every steep hill I would spend most of my time walking, theres one 13 mile climb which would be a really long walk. Personally I prefer to ride.
You can estimate your power output from average speed over level ground. Then use that wattage to determine how fast you can climb a given grade. Finally, use your cadence to determine the gear-inches you will need.
TheSubaruGuru wrote:Do folks really use 30t (or other underdriven ratios) to spin up hills at 5mph?
I don't. My strength is much better than my endurance so I find it more comfortable (and faster) to mash higher gears at a lower cadence. On long hills I like to alternate between sitting and standing so I use the highest gear I can push while seated.
That also means I like a stiff frame. I hate having frame flex steer the bike and grind the chain against the front derailleur whenever I climb or sprint.
I noticed a huge increase in climbing stiffness with a 64mm carbon rear wheel (Roval SCS), but have neither the strength nor endurance to mash up hills. That's why I was thinking that even a 6% gearing boost (36 to 34t ring) would allow me to keep cadence up a bit before stalling at 5mph. Mother Nature's laughing as I feebly fight age....
TheSubaruGuru wrote:Can you guys help me? I'd changed both my Rival and Ultegra 50/34 rings to 46/36 because I was told that this "cross" duo has tooth ramps that are mated. Indeed they shift superbly, unlike when I tried the new 46 with the original 34. Maybe I just didn't trim correctly?
I have this exact setup on 3 of my bikes, and it works flawlessly. I really like the 46/34 ratio for my area and riding style. I am using Ultegra 6800 chainrings and cranksets, with 6800 and 5800 shifters and derailleurs. I would give tuning another try. Did you lower the FD when you originally changed from 50T to 46T?
I wanted to lower the FD but it's brazed on. I may pop the 34 back on if I can't find unobtainium 32-33t ring that magically sits on a 5spoke 110BCD crank. Thanks.
