Roker Comp Review

128 replies · 4,104 views

Fishman
34 posts
#81Mar 27, 2018, 8:37 AM
"He had to take the entire cable assembly apart and found out that the cable was eating away at the end cap on the top tube where the cable goes into the inside of the bike."

Zman - I had the same issue on my Roker Comp. Cable movement cut a slot in the cable end cap. Eventually the shifting got wonky. I discovered the cause and replaced the cap. The shifting problem was resolved.
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spandy24
6 posts
#82Mar 27, 2018, 11:28 AM
I just recently snagged a Roker Comp 58cm (I guess one of the last ones, as they've completely disappeared online). I based this on the feedback here and I must say it is a peach! As you guys found in your boxes, the rear derailleur hanger was bent on arrival. Raleigh is sending me a new one though so no biggie. I will be using this bike as a gravel race bike and I'll likely upgrade some of the weaker components, the seatpost, saddle, stem, bars, crankset, wheels... I converted the stock tires to tubeless and they are holding air quite well. I used 70mL of Trucker sealant.

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zimdba
48 posts
#83Mar 27, 2018, 12:04 PMedited
spandy24 wrote:I just recently snagged a Roker Comp 58cm (I guess one of the last ones, as they've completely disappeared online). I based this on the feedback here and I must say it is a peach! As you guys found in your boxes, the rear derailleur hanger was bent on arrival. Raleigh is sending me a new one though so no biggie. I will be using this bike as a gravel race bike and I'll likely upgrade some of the weaker components, the seatpost, saddle, stem, bars, crankset, wheels... I converted the stock tires to tubeless and they are holding air quite well. I used 70mL of Trucker sealant.

That's a lot of seatpost & stem. You are going to race!

I've replaced most of the items you listed. Currently, my bike's at the LBS getting recabled after I installed the 6800 Ultegra groupset and TRP Hy/RD brakes. In fact, the only things that are stock are the bars, frame, and wheelset.

I got 1100 miles on the original setup, and never ran into the shifting problems that NoCoGreg or zman ran into. FYI, the chain was well past it's time to change based on the checker tool. I probably cross-chain more in this bike than I do my roadie, but still, 1100 miles seemed a bit quick. The LBS I took it to is pretty competent, so I doubt I'll have an issue shifting once I get it back.

Looking forward to the season.
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NoCoGreg
512 posts
#84Mar 27, 2018, 8:07 PM
Fishman wrote:"He had to take the entire cable assembly apart and found out that the cable was eating away at the end cap on the top tube where the cable goes into the inside of the bike."

Zman - I had the same issue on my Roker Comp. Cable movement cut a slot in the cable end cap. Eventually the shifting got wonky. I discovered the cause and replaced the cap. The shifting problem was resolved.

Thanks for the head's up on this! I'll definitely keep an eye on it...

Greg

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Zurichman
1,526 posts
#85Mar 27, 2018, 8:16 PM
NoCoGreg wrote:
Thanks for the head's up on this! I'll definitely keep an eye on it...

Greg

You are quite welcome Greg. I find it kind of funny that all these problems keep show up on the same bikes. At my end it seemed crazy that it could show up only after only 130 miles on my bike. From reading some other posts it sounds like they did start padding the rear derailleurs. It also was only affecting mine in the 3-4 highest gears on the upshifts only which shouldn't have much strain on it or is that because it's towards the end and what you would call cross chaining?

Zman
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jjbnum3
57 posts
#86Mar 27, 2018, 10:02 PMedited
Zurichman wrote:noCoolGreg Did you ever get your shifting problems fixed on your Roker Sport. This possibly could be the problem as my Roker Comp developed this problem after only 3 rides

a 32 mile ride
same 32 mile ride on the mts nearby
80 mile ride at Dirty Pecan

I took my Roker Comp today to a Raleigh LBS to get the 42 gear tooth changed out on the front end to 36. While there he noticed that the rear derailleur was hanging up in the last 3-4 gears while downshifting only. He had to take the entire cable assembly apart and found out that the cable was eating away at the end cap on the top tube where the cable goes into the inside of the bike. After all this rewrapping the bar tape and fishing the cable back down thru the down tube the bike shifts fine. My bill for all this repair was something like $30 but I still want to turn it into Raleigh as this shouldn't be happening this fast.

Greg you bike has the cable going thru the inside of the frame right?

Zman

Yeah no way that should be happening so soon or maybe ever.Interesting to see what Raleigh has to say.Sounds like you have A good LBS,$30 sounds like A good price.

It looks to me that some of Raleigh Carbon bikes are leaving off some of the rubber grommets for some of the cables and housing.I think there should be A plastic sleeve for the front derailleur cable going through the frame. NoCoGreg post has A photo of this part of the frame.

Now I looked at two Carbon Fuji's bicycles with the same set-up.Both had the sleeve,and I notice I have A extra one in my bag of parts sent with my Roker Sport.Also my Merit sport has A bent derailleur hanger.

[QUOTE=spandy24]I just recently snagged a Roker Comp 58cm (I guess one of the last ones, as they've completely disappeared online). I based this on the feedback here and I must say it is a peach! As you guys found in your boxes, the rear derailleur hanger was bent on arrival. Raleigh is sending me a new one though so no biggie. I will be using this bike as a gravel race bike and I'll likely upgrade some of the weaker components, the seatpost, saddle, stem, bars, crankset, wheels... I converted the stock tires to tubeless and they are holding air quite well. I used 70mL of Trucker sealant.

Raleigh.com still has the Roker for sale,but not all sizes.What wheel are you going tubeless with?
I ride the same size.I'm 6' 2" but have A small bike inseam for my height.
I'm just going to increase the stem one size and plan to use it about 40/60 road to offroad.

I'll post the build once I'm almost done,I should have almost everything.As I bought many parts as they went on sale.
chas
1,305 posts
#87Mar 28, 2018, 1:29 PM
There are a lot of Rokers available other than the Raleigh web site - and for a couple hundred dollars cheaper (Google, Amazon, ebay). Its a pity the Roker Race was not sold in the US. That is a sweet build.
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zimdba
48 posts
#88Mar 28, 2018, 1:47 PM
chas wrote:There are a lot of Rokers available other than the Raleigh web site - and for a couple hundred dollars cheaper (Google, Amazon, ebay). Its a pity the Roker Race was not sold in the US. That is a sweet build.

What was the groupset & price?

LBS had a new Trek Checkpoint on display. It looks like a lot of bike for the money. I'll probably take it out on a test ride when I'm able to ride again.

I got my Roker back today with the 6800 groupset. It sure shifts very well on the stand! I can't wait to ride it.
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chas
1,305 posts
#89Mar 28, 2018, 3:17 PM
Roker is a lot of bike for the money. New 2017 models are selling for $1600-$1700. Sport is around $1200.

You can google Roker Race - you'll get some UK hits. as I recall it weighed about 17.5lbs and had SRAM Force. JOM at Gravel Cyclist has the parts list for his 17.5 lb build.
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zimdba
48 posts
#90Mar 28, 2018, 3:40 PM
chas wrote:Roker is a lot of bike for the money. New 2017 models are selling for $1600-$1700. Sport is around $1200.

You can google Roker Race - you'll get some UK hits. as I recall it weighed about 17.5lbs and had SRAM Force. JOM at Gravel Cyclist has the parts list for his 17.5 lb build.

No argument there. You're getting a full carbon bike with a respectable groupset for $1200. That's pretty good. The only thing that I can think of that comes close is a Chinese Carbonda - and you have to build that yourself.
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jjbnum3
57 posts
#91Mar 28, 2018, 8:58 PMedited
chas wrote:There are a lot of Rokers available other than the Raleigh web site - and for a couple hundred dollars cheaper (Google, Amazon, ebay). Its a pity the Roker Race was not sold in the US. That is a sweet build.

Just looking at Amazon,the price for the Sport goes from around $1060 to over 2K .Depending on what size you need.My size hardly goes for cheap.But with the discounts on the Raleigh site,I'm happy with the price I paid for the Roker sport.

But anyone interested in A Roker or other Raleigh bike.Keep watching all the sites that sell them.
I notice prices going up and down all the time.$1060 is about the cheapest I seen the Roker Sport in one or two sizes.But be ready for A bent rear derailleur hanger.

chas wrote:Roker is a lot of bike for the money. New 2017 models are selling for $1600-$1700. Sport is around $1200.

You can google Roker Race - you'll get some UK hits. as I recall it weighed about 17.5lbs and had SRAM Force. JOM at Gravel Cyclist has the parts list for his 17.5 lb build.

I would have liked to get A Roker with Force.I'm going to build my sport up with either Red or shimano ultegra.

I like the paint on this Roker Pro from the Uk the best.

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Zurichman
1,526 posts
#92Mar 28, 2018, 10:25 PM
[QUOTE=jjbnum3]

But anyone interested in A Roker or other Raleigh bike.Keep watching all the sites that sell them.
I notice prices going up and down all the time.$1060 is about the cheapest I seen the Roker Sport in one or two sizes.But be ready for A bent rear derailleur hanger.

jjbnum3 I forget who posted last but somebody did get a bike shipped from Raleigh that was padded and the rear derailleur wasn't bent.

They might have been reading our posts. lol

Zman
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spandy24
6 posts
#93Apr 4, 2018, 12:41 PM
Just an update: I got the stock tires set up tubeless without issue, even though they are not technically the tubeless model. I used 90ml of Trucker sealant and stock rim tape. I am doing a 106 mi grinder this weekend so that will be the true test.
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Zurichman
1,526 posts
#94Apr 5, 2018, 2:41 PM
spandy24 wrote:Just an update: I got the stock tires set up tubeless without issue, even though they are not technically the tubeless model. I used 90ml of Trucker sealant and stock rim tape. I am doing a 106 mi grinder this weekend so that will be the true test.

Which bike were you setting up tubeless? My Roker Comp had tubeless tires on it.

spandy24 what ride are you doing? Good luck

Zman
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squak
51 posts
#95Apr 6, 2018, 12:04 AM
Solution to poor shifting.

It seems like a few of us reported shifting issues with the Roker Comp. When mine was set up perfectly and the cable/housing was new it shifted great except for a slight delay when shifting down the cassette between the smallest 3 cogs. The delay would get worse over time (particularly in wet and muddy conditions) and reached the point of being pretty annoying in less than 200 miles. It would shift fine when moving up the cassette so I'm convinced the problem is due to drag/friction with the cable and housing. As the derailleur gets closer the smallest cog there's less spring tension so a free-moving cable is critical to good shifting in those gears. The primary weak point is where the cable first enters the downtube. The entry angle is too sharp and creates extra friction/drag where the cable exits the ferrule. Ideally, the cable’s path of travel should be straight after exiting the ferrule. As someone else already pointed out, the cable will eventually start sawing into the ferrule creating even more drag. There’s a similar issue where the cable housing enters the frame at the chainstay, but the angle isn't as sharp.

The solution is to run full length housing. Running the housing through the frame isn't that hard and once it's done you essentially have a sealed system. You need to drill out the 2 cable stops, but that's easy. I feel dumb for not thinking of this sooner.
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zimdba
48 posts
#96Apr 6, 2018, 10:57 AM
FYI, I'm at 21.6lbs after installing the Ultegra 6800 groupset. This is after changing out the aforementioned groupset, stem, seatpost and saddle. It includes my K-edge combo Garmin/GoPro mount.

What are the rest of you weighing in at?
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NoCoGreg
512 posts
#97Apr 6, 2018, 11:24 AMedited
zimdba wrote:FYI, I'm at 21.6lbs after installing the Ultegra 6800 groupset. This is after changing out the aforementioned groupset, stem, seatpost and saddle. It includes my K-edge combo Garmin/GoPro mount.

What are the rest of you weighing in at?

My Roker Sport initial build came in around 22.5 but that was before I added Orange Seal to my tubes and some additional accessories.

FWIW the LBS recommended I not try to run the MSO's tubeless as they've had a 50% success rate. Clement has a tubeless specific MSO which I had the shop install on my wife's Jamis. Since I'm not racing on the Roker I just added 3 oz or Orange Seal to new tubes - the tubes which came on the Roker did not have removable valve cores.

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zimdba
48 posts
#98Apr 6, 2018, 12:43 PMedited
NoCoGreg wrote:

My Roker Sport initial build came in around 22.5 but that was before I added Orange Seal to my tubes and some additional accessories.

FWIW the LBS recommended I not try to run the MSO's tubeless as they've had a 50% success rate. Clement has a tubeless specific MSO which I had the shop install on my wife's Jamis. Since I'm not racing on the Roker I just added 3 oz or Orange Seal to new tubes - the tubes which came on the Roker did not have removable valve cores.

My weight was tubeless, with an oz or 2 of Orange Seal in Maxxis Rambler tires. I wouldn't trust the non-tubeless MSO tubeless after my experience on the Rampart Rager.

You put sealant IN tubes? Interesting - I've never heard of that.
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chas
1,305 posts
#99Apr 8, 2018, 1:57 PM
I use skinnystripper to run iffy tires tubeless (and actually on all my tires). It practically turns a clincher into a tubular tire. Burping or blow offs are difficult if not impossible. \n \nLots of little bonuses too. I just swapped tires into a new rim. It was a piece of cake. Sealant stayed in the tire, no mess on the rim or sealant loss on the swap. Surprisingly the easiest tire swap I have ever done.
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Zurichman
1,526 posts
#100Apr 8, 2018, 10:46 PM
[QUOTE=NoCoGreg]

My Roker Sport initial build came in around 22.5 but that was before I added Orange Seal to my tubes and some additional accessories.

FWIW the LBS recommended I not try to run the MSO's tubeless as they've had a 50% success rate. Clement has a tubeless specific MSO which I had the shop install on my wife's Jamis. Since I'm not racing on the Roker I just added 3 oz or Orange Seal to new tubes - the tubes which came on the Roker did not have removable valve cores.

[/QUOTE
nocoolgreg not sure which tires came on your sport. my tamland had the non tubeless and your shop was right. i did manage to get the front sealed up but not the back. my roker comp came with the tubeless mso tires.

zman
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