Just stumbled on this post, thought I’d keep it alive!
I ride one of the 9 IMBA edition RLT steels (google it for deets, so rad). I’ve been riding it for about 3.5 years/5,000 miles. It’s an awesome bike. Really checks every box.
I did have a problem with the BB. The tolerance of the BB she’ll was off a tad (slightly too big). I replaced the BB with a Works and that solved the problem.
Im about to put some 32mm all road rubber on the 700s and build a set of 650x47 knobbies.
Sorry to ressurect an older topic but I'm very interested in the RLT Steel. I've found one that's a 56 but I'm 6ft1 with a 33 inseam....is that too small? It actually looks very similar in dimensions to my old 58cm Synapse disc.
Also .... is it 'that' heavy? I don't mind if the ride isn't correspondingly dull/solid as I felt on a Genesis Longitude
Hey Hugo - I'm the one that started this topic. I did get a RLT Steel. I ended up selling it last year. I am just under 5' 11" and the 56 just did not work for me. I ended getting a Trek Boone (56) that fits me just right. My general thoughts on the Niner are: -The length of the top tube and reach were just too long for me. -The length of the chain stay was ok for stability but it does make the bike slower. -The paint did not hold up real good. Now this can be partially blamed on how the bike was used. It was strictly used for gravel riding and it did see some abuse. But, I take pretty good care of my bikes. In general. -I found the front end / fork to be very strong but also on the harsh side.
I am not saying the RLT is a bad bike at all. It just wasn't right for me.
I've been riding my Niner RLT steel for about 3 years, also a size 56. I've been very happy with it and like the ride better than other similar bikes I've ridden. No issues with the frame or fork. As currently set up, my RLT steel weighs 22 lbs. So no, it's not that heavy. I can't tell if I am running 1, 2, or 3 water bottles, so I doubt I would notice if I got a different frame that was 1.5 pounds lighter. I have no issue hanging with aggressive group rides.
From my perspective, a 22 lbs bike is a good match to the "roads" I ride, think forrest service and farm roads with lots of limestone gravel, washboards, and hills. I feel it is more stable, tracks better, and doesn't beat me up as much as an 18 lbs bike.
Currently running Kenda Alluvium 45mm tires, a redshift shock stop stem, and a Zipp ergo alloy bar. This combo, combined with the steel frame, smooths out the front end and makes long gravel rides enjoyable.
I've also got an RLT9 Steel, size 53 (I'm 5'8") that I ride 75% gravel 25% road (to get to the gravel) and the 'fit' was good out of the box. Mine weighs in at 23 lbs (with carbon wheels) running Vittoria Terreno Dry in 38 (which measure almost 42 on hookless rims). I did throw carbon bars on there and that coupled with the carbon wheels has helped the ride quality (which was already good to begin with being steel) but I would agree that the front ride quality can be on the harsh side which I've been able to dial that in with tire pressure. I have dinged the fork paint a couple times, and I'm super careful with my bikes. Ironically the ding's haven't been on the road, but while loading into my truck (which was super frustrating). The one thing on this bike that really didn't work for me was the stock saddle. I gave it a couple hundred painful miles before throwing in the towel but I like to have a big pressure relief cut out in my saddles. This is definitely one of my favorite bikes to ride (now that I've swapped bars, saddle and wheels, but that's part of the fun for me). My son is planning on getting the RLT9 RDO in the near future.
I like the look of these frames but I still can't figure out why just a frameset costs so much. Is there something special about them that I am not seeing?
Well, a quality frameset does cost a bit more. I’ve found the cost of a Niner frameset (carbon, alloy, or steel), is similar to what their competition charges. In the case of the Niner RLT steel, the Reynolds 825 tube set is more expensive steel than the 4130 steel most less expensive steel frames are made of. The Niner also has much better welding than most inexpensive frames.
I can tell a difference in both weight and ride quality between 825 steel and 4130 steel. While I have not ridden it, the new Niner carbon fork is reported to be an improvement over the older version (what I have), and is less harsh.
Could you find a complete new bike for the cost of a Niner Frameset - yes you could. Would it be of the same quality? Doubtful. However, we’re just talking about riding bikes here, and any bike that you enjoy riding and helps you keep the rubber side down is a good bike from my perspective.
Material: Reynolds 853 is a high end material that allows for either a stronger frame at the same weight as 4130, or a lighter frame with similar strength. I believe Niner claims this is the lightest steel frame around.
Build quality: This thing has some simply amazing welds, it's a work or art.
My son and I just built a Kona Rove with the exact same build kit as my Niner (the frame cost half) and his bike comes in 2lbs heavier (no carbon fork).
Kind of a personal thing if you want to spend extra for premium or you're totally content with good old 4130. Lots of companies make super solid steel bikes with really good build kits.
Looking for a 15x100 mm handle/lever style thru-axle for subject bike. Any help? I typically take the front wheel off for transporting the bike in my vehicle. Putting the wheel back on is "fiddly" trying to get things lined up, at least more troublesome than other bikes I have experience with. Was thinking an axle w' a handle or QR lever would help. I've seen online pics of this type axle on this very bike, but I can't easily find one. I did find that DT Swiss make a RWS style in 15x100 but based on my searches, it's not easily found in the US. Any & all info is appreciated.
biglmbass wrote:Looking for a 15x100 mm handle/lever style thru-axle for subject bike. Any help? I typically take the front wheel off for transporting the bike in my vehicle. Putting the wheel back on is "fiddly" trying to get things lined up, at least more troublesome than other bikes I have experience with. Was thinking an axle w' a handle or QR lever would help. I've seen online pics of this type axle on this very bike, but I can't easily find one. I did find that DT Swiss make a RWS style in 15x100 but based on my searches, it's not easily found in the US. Any & all info is appreciated.
