My $.02 --- my preference is for drop bars with brakeshifters. I like to frequently shift my hand position while riding to reduce hand and wrist fatigue. I can ride on the tops for cruising, grab the hoods for firmer control and shifting, or go to the drops for better control, and brake leverage on descents and cornering. Of course, you can also shift from the drops if necessary.But I'll leave that to the sprinters. BTW, I've found that the drops aren't always the best place to be for aerodynamics. Especially if you have wide bars and keep your arms straight. Then you body forms a great big scoop going into the wind. If you hold the tops near the stem - with your hands close together - bend your elbows into a tuck, hunch your shoulders and drop your head, you can get very aero. Try it sometime while descending. You'll see what I mean. Of course, this position isn't very comfortable, but I find that just getting my hands together and bending my elbows- even if it isn't a perfect tuck - gives me a good compromise between comfort and aerodynamics. Finally, measure the distance between the bumps on your shoulder. This determines your ideal bar width. If you are like me, and have narrow shoulders, then get narrower bars to match your shoulder width. Most stock bikes that I buy come with bars that are much too wide. Since I prefer a very narrow bar on top, I like designs that have some flare out on the drops. This gives me more clearance for my knees when holding the drops. I guess the wood chipper design takes that concept to an extreme; but I have no experience with it and can't comment.
I'm surprised at the results of the poll. Going on what I see in most photos and vids of Gravel Racing, standard drop bars seem the most popular by a mile.
For long distances I don't like riding flat bars. They are great for control, but unless there are lots of technical descents where you'd benefit from the wider stance I'd say keep them for the MTB.
I tried the flared DropTune bars that came with my GT Grade, but have struggled to set them up so that I can ride in comfort on the hoods and drops. If I had them set so the hood position was spot-on the drops were rotated too far forward to ride on for long periods and I'd have to stretch for the brake levers while down there. I use the same bike for long road rides too, so being able to use both positions is important. I did really like the slanted angle of the hoods though while riding on them while seated and the flared drops were good for descending off-road.
In the end after swapping them over a few times to compare, I gave up on the flared bars and now have some FSA Energy compact drops on the bike. They are supremely comfortable in all positions (especially the flattened tops) and brake lever reach is no longer an issue due to the tighter bend. I like aspects of both type of bar, but just couldn't quite get the flared bars set up right for me and after a tough Adventure Cross event that had my arms aching for the last third of the ride, they came off for good.
From my viewpoint: I like the straight bars with small bar ends....being more of a mtn biker than a roadie to start with, I am used to the flat bar...and I am safer on the technical descents with it. The bar ends allow me to use different hand positions and I can be comfortable there all day long. Safety on the rough descents is my priority.
If I will be on mostly smooth descents, I will use my gravel bike that has the drop bars..but I spend most of my time on the hoods. Those rides are not commonplace for me however.
Interesting thread...I have enjoyed reading and learning. Thanks.
