Compatible chainrings

8 replies · 274 views

bobknh
794 posts
#1May 9, 2016, 7:28 PMedited
I have a FSA Gossamer 46/36 on my 11 speed Hanjo comp. It uses the old 5 hole symmetrical 110 bolt pattern. It tried to replace the FSA 36 with a 34 from an old Shimano Ultegra 50/34 5 hole symmetric 110 10 speed crankset. It seemed to fit well, and aligned the arrow on the chainring with the crank arm, but when I re-installed the crank on my Haanjo it worked very poorly. Any suggestions for a 34 that will be compatible with my Gossamer 46/36 11 speed setup? The new FSA 11 speed cranks use an asymmetrical 4 hole design.
1
RoverAl
489 posts
#2May 10, 2016, 6:38 AM
Can you explain what poorly means? Perhaps the derailler height needs adjusting?
0
bobknh
794 posts
#3May 10, 2016, 6:55 AM
RoverAl wrote:Can you explain what poorly means? Perhaps the derailler height needs adjusting?

Thanks for getting back to me. Chain "suck" on the 34. The 46 worked OK. I think that for some reason the spacing between the chainrings is slightly larger than spec. when I use the Shimano 10 speed 34 on an 11 speed FSA setup. I've had similar problems in the past mixing chainrings from different manufacturers originally designed for a different number of rear cogs. Much easier to change the rear cassette -- but expensive because the only 11-36 11 speed cassette I could find was the IRD for about $180. I use the IRD 11-36 11 speed on my road bike and it works well with a medium cage Ultegra 6800 derailleur. Wanted to save some money by using some old spare parts.
0
namdoogttam
35 posts
#4May 10, 2016, 8:14 AM
Hmmm...I was going to suggest some nonsense about chainrings being specifically ramped/pinned for eachother, in matching pairs....but, I don't really know what I'm talking about...of whether there's any truth to it.

Other possibles...
- I've had issues with chain-suck up front when my chain was too dirty and not well lubed (something to rule-out, like gas in the tank).
- Is it possible your chain is a bit old and has 'stretched'? Maybe it's 'sticking' to the new chainring because the tooth spacing is un-worn, and no longer matches the link spacing on your old chain?
0
DrSpoke
272 posts
#5May 10, 2016, 12:02 PM
Good points above. The ramps are on the big chainring to aid when shifting up from small to large. But not necessary when going from large to small as the chain just drops down. I can imagine the spacing being a little off but would think it would be very small. But, of course, that wouldn't be causing the chain suck after the chain has already shifted onto the small chainring. On my mountain bike I was getting chain suck on my little ring (24t, 38t large) when I switched out for a new chain and cassette. Apparently it was quite worn and went away when I installed a new one. Note that the smaller chainrings generally wear quicker than the large ones. The width of the 11-sp and 10-sp chains, chainrings and cassette cogs are slightly different as are the chainring and cog spacing. That said, I've heard that, at least for the chainrings, they are pretty much interchangeable. Finally, SRAM makes a couple of 11-36 11-sp cassettes. I've been using the PG-1170 w/a Shimano drivetrain w/o issue.
0
Slim
300 posts
#6May 10, 2016, 12:33 PMedited
All of the above.\n\n\nTo verify, you are experiencing chainsuck, in other words, as you pedal, the chain doesn't release from the chainring at the bottom and gets pulled back up on the backside?\n\nGenerally 10 and 11 speed chainrings should work just fine interchangeably, but maybe in your exact case it doesn't. I had issues that my chain wouldn't drop off the big ring when I used a Shimano 10 speed chain on my SRAM 10 speed crankset.\n\nThe first thing I would check is that there is no damaged tooth on the chainring, and that there is sufficient clearance between the teeth and the spider. Since you are using a Shimano ring on an FSA crank, maybe the shaping of the spider is such that the chain is getting jammed against the spider at certain positions.\n\nIf that all looks good, swapping in a new chain would be the first try, a stretched chain seems the most likely candidate.\n\nYes, chainrings are made in matching pairs for best shifting, but that obviously only affects shifting from one to another. If we understand you correctly your issue is only related to the small chaining and the chain.\n\n
0
bobknh
794 posts
#7May 10, 2016, 3:32 PM
Slim wrote:All of the above. To verify, you are experiencing chainsuck, in other words, as you pedal, the chain doesn't release from the chainring at the bottom and gets pulled back up on the backside? Generally 10 and 11 speed chainrings should work just fine interchangeably, but maybe in your exact case it doesn't. I had issues that my chain wouldn't drop off the big ring when I used a Shimano 10 speed chain on my SRAM 10 speed crankset. The first thing I would check is that there is no damaged tooth on the chainring, and that there is sufficient clearance between the teeth and the spider. Since you are using a Shimano ring on an FSA crank, maybe the shaping of the spider is such that the chain is getting jammed against the spider at certain positions. If that all looks good, swapping in a new chain would be the first try, a stretched chain seems the most likely candidate. Yes, chainrings are made in matching pairs for best shifting, but that obviously only affects shifting from one to another. If we understand you correctly your issue is only related to the small chaining and the chain.

Hi Slim- I agree with you. BTW --- the chain on my bike is virtually new, as are all the components since this is a new bike. I think that changing the cassette from an 11-32 to an 11-36 11 speed will give me no problems. I've already done that on my 11-speed road bike with a medium cage derailleur. Just screwing in the b-screw a few turns and everything works great. Unfortunately, the only 11 speed 11-36 cassette I can find is the $180 IRD.
0
DrSpoke
272 posts
#8May 10, 2016, 5:50 PMedited
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-PG1170-PG-1170-11-Speed-11-36-Road-Bike-Cassette-CX1-Force-Medium-Cage-/262426322283?hash=item3d19d3e56b:g:NYgAAOSw~oFXLqwA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/sram-11-36-cassette-PG-1170-WiFli-/252379086723?hash=item3ac2f73f83:gE0AAOSw2GlXKstv

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-PG-1130-11-speed-Cassette-/252214624227?var=&hash=item3ab929bfe3:m:mvohXUkv0MFwIQS3a49BbBg
0
bobknh
794 posts
#9May 10, 2016, 7:49 PMedited
DrSpoke wrote:http://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-PG1170-PG-1170-11-Speed-11-36-Road-Bike-Cassette-CX1-Force-Medium-Cage-/262426322283?hash=item3d19d3e56b:g:NYgAAOSw~oFXLqwA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/sram-11-36-cassette-PG-1170-WiFli-/252379086723?hash=item3ac2f73f83:gE0AAOSw2GlXKstv

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-PG-1130-11-speed-Cassette-/252214624227?var=&hash=item3ab929bfe3:m:mvohXUkv0MFwIQS3a49BbBg[/QUOTE]
Hi DrSpoke- Thanks for the heads up. Didn't know that SRAM made an 11 speed 11-36. I'm uncomfortable buying stuff on e-bay, but I found Competitive Cyclist selling them new for $82.95 with free shipping. Way better deal than the IRD, but perhaps a bit heavier: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-pg-1170-cassette?skid=SRM0506-ONECOL-S11S25&CMP_SKU=SRM0506&MER=0406&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc014&mv_pc=r101&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&CSPID=0914&mr:trackingCode=AA776C4E-13F5-E211-B197-001B21BCB944&mr:referralID=NA&mrevice=c&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=81822233821&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:tid=pla-120393057181&mrloc=9002286&mr:iloc=&mr:store=&mr:filter=120393057181&gclid=CLbvv6nl0MwCFckehgodFE8C4g&gclsrc=aw.ds
0

Related threads

FS: Wolf Tooth Road LinkComponents and Accessories · 1 replies · May 6, 2016
Chinese carbon gravel - Lightbicycle JourneyBikes · 4 replies · Sep 14, 2021
GRX Crankset, Chainring & Cassette Options - Could a RX800/600 hybrid drivetrain deliver awesome gear range?Components - Discussion and Reviews · 11 replies · Oct 3, 2020
Gravel GearingComponents - Discussion and Reviews · 185 replies · May 21, 2019
1x crank alternativesComponents - Discussion and Reviews · 6 replies · Sep 16, 2018