Frame Bag vs Camelback vs Rack

In the past I have used a Camelback on long rides to carry extra water, food and repair supplies.  I know frame bags are also popular.  I borrowed a frame bag from a friend but didn't care for it.  The frame bag made it difficult to get to my water bottles and my knees tend to brush the side of the bag.  My new gravel bike has eyelets for a rack.  Carrying extra stuff strapped to the rack sounds much to me than wearing the 9 pound Camelback or dealing with frame bag clearance issues.  My question is...Is this is such a good idea (like it seems to me!), then why do I see so few people (Camelbacks probably outnumber racks 50 to 1) using a rack at large rides/races?

Even lightweight racks are heavy, so very few people use them.  

I say keep trying frame bags or try a different one (banjo brothers is small (unlike me) and hangs out in the front (unlike me)).  Maybe you overstuffed the one you tried?  

I just got a bigger frame bag and am switching to side loading cages.

I use a saddlebag. A real one, with space to carry everything I need, including extra water if needed. You could also strap your water bladder to the frame near the head tube -- most bladders have strap attachments, and I carry one that way if needed.

I don't mind extra weight, and the weight of a rack is minimal compared to the weight of the engine (or in many cases the 5-10 pounds the engine could stand to lose!). Grin.

Also, I recommend reading "Waterlogged." Most of us drink too much water. Plus, once I shifted to burning fat instead of needing carbs, I carry almost no food at all and need a lot less water, drinking only to thirst. Water goes a LOT farther now than it used to.

With abandon,
Patrick

I wanted to add that it seems to me wearing a Camelback has at least as much price to it as a rack does. Weight on the body moves around with every motion, it's above the waist so is constantly away from the fulcrum, and on your shoulders. Blech.

But then I ride steel, SS, barefoot, and who know what other non-conventionals. Grin. You'd be nuts to listen to me.

With abandon,
Patrick
 

Thanks for the feedback.  For now, I have decided to go with a largeish seat bag.  Big enough for 2 tubes, CO2, multi-tool, tire levers, patch kit, tire boots, and extra chain link.  I can either carry a third water bottle in my jersey or use the Revelate Mtn Feedbag. 

I still like the rack as a better alternative to the Camelback.  As far as weight, the rack I bought is claimed to be 675 grams (1.5 pounds) by manufacturer.  An empty Camelback or frame bag are probably at least 1 pound.  I would much rather have the weight on the frame of the bike instead of my back and shoulders all day.

Here is the saddlebag I use. There is also the Bagman seat mounted rack that you may want to look into. I don't have one but have heard excellent things about it.

With abandon,
Patrick

I use a frame bag for tools, tubes, and food.  I also wear a Camelback Mule for water, a spare tire, and small items that I may need.  The frame bag keeps my water bottles from bouncing out; when the Camelback runs dry, I transfer the water from the bottles into the bladder.

I am riding a 61 cm touring frame, so it has plenty of room for the bag and bottles.  I can see where the geometry on some frames would make using both difficult.  I probably carry more than I need, but I am sure that I will pack lighter in the future...

I prefer to hydrate with a camelbak. I use the Octane. Holds 70 oz. The Octane is marketed as a runner's hydration pack. The bladder is low on the back, so you don't have all that weight on your shoulders. On training rides 6-7 hour rides or more I also carry 2 or 3 bottles on the frame. I prefer the pack because it's easier to hydrate. It's not always convenient to grab a water bottle on rough roads.

Frame Bag - I've not used one that was narrow enough not to hit my knees and carry more than a small handlebar bag.
 
Camelbak - The shoulder and chest straps combined with the extra weight on my back feel like they're interfering with my normal heat dissipation.  I'm afraid that any tools I carry in a camelbak could puncture my back if I crash. I accept a camelbak as a necessary evil when I'm on my full-suspension mtb because the frame design only has space for a single water bottle inside the main triangle and the dropper seat post precludes using a saddlebag. I avoid using the bladder unless I really think I have to carry a lot of water. I carry water bottles because there are more options for putting ordinary water in one, a sports drink in another, etc..
 
Rack - I really like having a short rear rack as a support for a saddlebag or just a tie-down spot for a jacket, gloves, and maybe an additional tube.  A rack is inconvenient because it is time consuming to install and remove. The rack causes clearance problems if I want to carry a bike inside my car. I would not try to use a rack on a carbon bike because I don't think the carbon tubes were designed to be crushed or clamped by the rack fasteners. Installing a rack on a full-suspension bike might require some unusual engineering.

Not all rear racks are heavy.

Tubus racks made in Germany are considered the gold standard by many touring cycleist.

They make many styles.  The "Airy" model is very light, 1/2# >
http://www.tubus.com



I spend a good amount of time researching racks,panniers,bags.  It seems the largest mis-conception is the weight of racks, rack bags,panniers,etc.  Typically,  it seems the average researcher of,  looks at stout touring racks with heavy durable, highest quality touring panniers made for the long haul.  There are light weight racks and ultra light weight panniers as well. http://www.arkel-od.com/us/dry-lites.html

A simple low cost, low weight option is to just use a dry bag,stuff sack,compression sack of about 15 L. size on top of the rack and be done with it.  These bags can be very light weight if one wants  > http://www.rei.com/product/848438/outdoor-research-ultralight-compression-sack#tab-specs    or a little heavier and more durable like mine below.

I have used a rear rack for a long time (25 years????).  Believe me I spend a lot of time looking for other options........and my latest is frame pack > saddle bags.......but,  other than pure race need and even then the longer the race (days versus hours) the less need for minor non rotational weight savings and the greater need for self suffciant cargo space........its tough to give up a rack.

Rack as a mud guard -  here is my current set up.  I run this townie mode to gravel tour,especially in winter (now).
   

This rack is a Planet Earth, about 1.5#, $30 bucks???  It doubles as a awesome rear mud guard with plenty of clearance (shown 1.8" tire ).  I take a large saddle bag for tools (Topeka MTB large shown).  It has rubber like tread on the bottom and straddles over the racks up-ward "L" tubing bend.  A dry bags buckle then is buckle around the L bend of the rack and under the saddle tool bag.  I then add a buckle strap around the bag.  The dry bag shown is HUGE 30 L much larger than needed (i have several as I am a paddler/row'er also).  I bolted on a mud flap to the rear and zip tied the mount for a rechargeable blinky rear light.
I have a inexpensive small saddle bag , commuter type pannier (16L total).  It was a about $30 bucks>
http://www.backcountry.com/louis-garneau-explorer-b-16-cycling-panniers

Here are a couple more photos of the same set up on my mutt different dry bag (little smaller 20L) of contrasting color so you can see the set up better.
 

I flop this on often in townie mode.  They are not heavy touring panniers nor are they large.

It's really nice to have my tool saddle pouch separate.

Some act as if it is Such a hassle to take off a rack.  I don't get that,  its four small hex head bolts.  I take mine off a lot during summer.  Maybe 7 mins off/7 mins onetime?



Now,  I am Not a "gravel racer" but I do ride a heck of a lot of gravel,dirt,fire/forest.

I have been eyeing up Revelate Designs fine stuff for some time.  Its not like theirs weighs nothing as compared.  In fact the one (not sweet roll the other) front bar set up is Really Heavy.
I am leaning towards a Revelate Designs Pika seat bag.  There would be a little weight savings but,  I also lose my mud guard function and a lot of versatility.  So,  I don't know ??? and there high priced ($135) for what they are.

BTW-  I have back packs also.  They sound great until you put even just 5#s in them and then they suck riding.

IMO - its between the bike packs and rack.  I am not suggesting either as I am unsure myself and have not tried bike packs yet.  But,  I can share this - if your bike has braze ons for a rear rack and you happen to buy for $30-$50 bucks any rack from Blackburn, P.E. , OMM, etc............you will have a hard time taking it off and leaving it off..........I have for 25 years

Good Luck

A nicely executed idea on a classic place to carry stuff is the Recorrido Bag:\nhttps://m.facebook.com/commerce/products/861819580600073/\nAlso here:\nhttp://www.amazon.com/Recorrido-Handlebar-Cycling-Fatbike-Mountain/dp/B0195THLU8\n\nIt is very light. It is out of the way of knees, legs, and bottles in the frame. The size is perfect for an extra layer, a pump and some food. It also allows for the addition of another h20 bottle cage off the seatpost: (I use this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41MJ6Hv4E7L.jpg). \n\nAt $20 + shipping, it's pretty easy on the budget compared to just about everything else mentioned. I've been thinking of picking one up...\n\nDisclaimer: while I have met the guy who is making these, I am not connected with the business in any way.\n\nCroz