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How much slower are Gravel Tires? Maybe 2mph, but it depends....
I’ve been wondering this, and doing a lot of experimenting and reading. What I have found – a good gravel tire is pretty similar to a good “training” road slick. A road race oriented slick is pretty damn fast (and now usable on gravel, thanks Continental!!!) Knobbed tires biggest drawback is cornering (and probably accelerating) on pavement.
I would guess that if you can “hear” a knobby tire on pavement, its probably costing you 30 watts.
While we focus a lot on tread, construction is pretty important. That said, good sidewall protection is probably costing ~20 watts at 30 psi (or about ½ that at 60psi).
Resistance for a pair of tires at 18 mph.
16 watt – Race tire (GP5000 32mm Tubeless)
38 watt - high end gravel slick or Road race Training tire (GP 4 season, Schwalbe G-One, Furious Fred, Compass)
45 watt - Lightly treaded fast Tire (Thunder Burt, Rambler).
60-70 watt - Typical treaded tire. (48mm GK-SK, Kenda small block 8, Top Contact treaded)
For comparison, 50 watts will take you from 19 to 21mph in the drops. The speed difference will be a lot bigger if you are drafting at higher speeds.
Effort for given speed in the drops
MPH Watts
16 100
18 133
19 154
20 175
21 200
22 227
24 290
26 360
28 445
Zurichman wrote:I don't do the roadie bike too much anymore since being hit by a drunk on a night roadie ride. At my end when I am riding my Clement MSO xplor(now Donnley) tires at 45r 40f they sure seem a lot faster than 40r 35f. Just my experience.
Zman
“Seems” is key.
Just listened to an old cyclingtips podcast on wide tires with Cervelo (and Jan Heine). Cervelo does a lot of blind testing with their riders – mostly frames and wheels. They did play with tire pressure too. Every time they raised the pressure, riders would come back saying – that bike is fast. I can tell its more aero – or something similar. In reality their times were the same, the bike was the same, it just jumped around more and “felt” faster.
That lead to a discussion of how vibrations feel fast, and how to we change our mindset to realize that smooth should feel fast. Jan tells himself if the ride isn’t smooth that he is losing efficiency and speed…
ON rides where everyone else is on 23-25mm tires at 100-120psi, I’m riding 32mm tires at 50-60psi. On the roads around here I think that is faster. Drop the pressure a little, and I’m doing the same thing on gravel. One bike to rule them all! ;-)
dangle wrote:Most GCN videos are a great example of how not to do science.
ccand51997 wrote:When you look at how far apart the wattage is for the GP5000 at different pressures, it makes you wonder if the rollers accentuate differences in tire pressure more than on the road. At the Bicycle Rolling Resistance site, he noted a 2 watt per tire difference in 60 to 80 psi. There experiment shows a massive 28 watt or 14 watt difference per tire which also goes contrary to my own experiments that tire pressure makes only a very small difference.
As the Conti tire is very new, no one really knows what sort of rolling properties it has.
The real problem with the above video is that they general road vs. gravel speed using the fastest all around road tire available against a new tire about which very little is known. If the Terra speed is really 150 watts slower than a GP5000 then it is the worst tire in existence which is probably not the case.
We all make assumptions in our discussion. Some people talk 100% gravel. Some ride 75% gravel, some 50%, some 25%, some even ride gravel bikes on 100% pavement. Where I live, our “gravel” roads are smoother than our paved roads much of the year (gravel does change though, doesn’t it).
The root of this question is – can I do everything with my gravel bike? Do I need a separate set of tires (or bikes) for different rides? If I do it all with one, what compromise am I making? When do I want to switch? There are no pat answers – but we can learn from data and decide what makes sense for us.
The GCN test is lame, and an interesting discussion starter. Keep in mind the answer in England is different than the answer in the US (which varies by region). In Europe (and England), the G-One is in many ways the ultimate tire. But it doesn’t cover all conditions in the US.
But no – gravel tires are not for Gravel only – unless you have the luxury of having multiple wheelsets or bikes. Even then – where is the crossover point? I like to have data to make my decision.
Before data, many of us were doing rougher paved roads on skinny tires at 120psi. That was just wrong, but felt right. So, I find the data points useful, even if limited.
And yeah, measuring Resistance on a variety of gravel is a herculean task – so tire choice tends to be a mix of art and science.
My takeaway is that if it feels fast its slow. That lively jittery feeling we used to strive for is making my bike and my muscles inefficient.
If it feels smooth – its fast.