Loading…
The second plan is to buy parts and build the bike myself selecting the components I want. I have read that this does not get cheaper as bike sellers have discount by buying in big quantities form the components suppliers. But it can get cheaper is you plan to replace some components from a bike you buy. Anyway. For this part, I tried to look around what are the frames made in France or Germany (I like to support local business even though I know the tubes does not always come from the region). With my budget I cannot buy a custom frame but a standard one is possible. Something like this at 600€ for frame + fork in CrMo Steel. Or from the well known Bombtrack, the Arise which stands in the same range of prices (~600€ frame + fork). Do you guys have any recommendations ? I did not find a lot of others, it is quite hard I guess.
For the rest, I think the groupset will be link to the question I raised previously, the handlebar, wheels and tyres will also come while discussing the project with you. I hope you guys will like to give me some help to get my first gravel
.
Once again, sorry for the long post and the possible English mistakes.
Cheers,
Alex
I have always heard and used 105 or Ultegra – but I read lately that Tiagra has gotten pretty good. So, I guess I wouldn’t discount that if I found a bike I liked.
I’ve had a lot of fun on my old Aluminum CX bike. It was stiff, but a good seat post and good tires make it a comfortable all day ride for me.
In general, 36mm should be OK for where you are riding. In the US, they tend to put down gravel that is about 2-3cm in size, so a 40mm tire works well. I tend to ride on 32mm in the summer when things are dry and more consistent. It looks like that could be a good way for you to save 150€. Is the geometry the same?
(That is a lot of typing in English – I wouldn’t want to type that much in French or German (its hard enough just using a French keyboard, LOL. Sometimes I use a German keyboard – But as there is a ‘y’ in my name – I have to be careful there too.)
MfG, Charles

Generally, you can get a similar gear range on 1x as with 2x if you really want to. But if you do that, there will be larger jumps between gears. I think 1x is ok if you ride by yourself, but 2x can be pretty important if you ride in groups (where you can’t just go your own speed) or if you are sensitive to cadence.
Most of my German biking has been in Saarland or Luxembourg, and 32 - 36mm would be fine there. Provence – maybe I would want something a little bigger (its so dry and rocky).
For 650b – often (not always) the front fork and rear chain stay are V shaped. Thus, if the wheel is smaller (or actually the wide part of the tire) – then the tire is in a fatter part of the “V” giving you a little more room. (this does not work on my bike with parallel rear chainstays that flare out near the hub).
In my experience building your own bike gets expensive as buying a prebuilt bike seems to have a large discount on the components.
I rather like Canyon. In Germany you can get the Grail 6.0 (Tiagra) for 1.199,00 €, 7.0 (105) for 1.499,00 € or even an Inflite for 1.599,00 € . (2018 Best Price/Performance (aktivRadfahren 11-12/18) (RennRad 11-12/18)). That is something to benchmark against. Either way, make sure you get hydralic brakes and tubeless compatible wheels.
Thank you djj8 and chas for your answers.
I think I will have a look at already built bike as I calculated how much it will cost me to build my own one with a 105 hydraulic groupset I am already at 1200€ without handlebar, wheels and tyres so I guess this is not worth it.
Ok, I understood for the tyres, it makes sense.
I am having a look at your bikes, I must say that the Canyon have a very good reputation here and I do like the bikes. I do not know the Sonder brand, but the geometry looks more relaxed than the Canyon, am I wrong?
Unfortunately I am not able to move the post to the "bikes" sub-forum, maybe an admin could do it?
Alex
KrKAlex wrote:I think I will have a look at already built bike as I calculated how much it will cost me to build my own one with a 105 hydraulic groupset I am already at 1200€ without handlebar, wheels and tyres so I guess this is not worth it.
KrKAlex wrote:T The Inflite is more a CX bike, I think the Grail AL 7.0 is very good for my purpose because I have read CX bikes bring a big advantage when you have to do tight curves as well as going from 0 to 20 km/h very fast but it loses some of its interest while riding "longer period" at the same speed. Is it right or it is simply the theory but in the end the experience is almost the same?
?
That is true. On the Inflite, I’m a little more bent over (aero) (lower stack) compared to the Grail. After 5+ hours that starts to get old. The Grail will be a little better at going in a straight line and more stable through a fast turn. Generally speaking, the Inflite will be more agile (and in some situations, faster), while the Grail will be a little more comfortable and stable.
chas wrote:In general, the Canyon Grail is not super relaxed - its kind of similar to an endurance road bike (in contrast to some gravel bikes that get similar to mountain bikes if they are real relaxed). I have an Inflite, which is the opposite of relaxed. It does fine on a tight road race if I want it to.
Raleigh makes some good relaxed gravel bikes that are reasonably priced (especially if you find one at a discount.
