Another Raleigh Tamland 1 ?

So Sat. a week ago I rode the surprise course Crush and Run II out of Litiz Pa. Luckily I was riding with some old friends that know the area and course and we still somehow managed to get lost at least twice.  The first 1/2 of the ride/race went fairly well for me even though I was highly untrained for the ride because of my medical injuries this year with my collarbone nerve pain. I was lucky in that there were 5 riders and I was kind of mid pack and suffered on the climbs and then could soft pedal some to recover until the last rider caught up after the climbs.

We had to make the 1/2 way point of the ride but a cut off time or not get the 2nd 1/2 cue sheet. We made it by 30 - 45 minutes. The ride kind of went downhill for me after that. There was a techy section that you had to climb a small hill and jump a root. No problem climbing the small hill. Jumping the tree root was a different story. I did a slow speed crash probably at about 5 mph or less over onto my right side. My pride was hurt more than anything but I did has some nice scratches/cuts on my right arm. Here is where I noticed a big difference between the roadie crowd and the gravel crowd. The roadie crowd would have asked how is the bike. The gravel crowd asked any blood and hooted when I showed them my arm.  I guess sooner or later they think/know you are going to trash your bike. How true I found this out later.

Now my ?????????????????????????????'s

So today I took the Tamland out for a ride. The last 1/2 of the ride last Sat. I had to ride in the lower 10 gears as the chain keep flying off the front big chain ring. I though I just had something out of adjustment or possibly bent the front derailleur a little bit. Now on today's ride yes it keeps jumping off the front ring. I look down and the big front chain ring is really bent/tacoed. I know the crash didn't do that. I do remember I came on to this one climb and was in the wrong gearing. I jumped up on the bike was mashing some gears and down shifting as fast as I could. I think this bent that ring and it's hard to believe at my end that I could bend it from that but it wasn't working after that.

Specs for the bike just show forged 2 piece compact crank 34/46

Can somebody give me some advice some replacement cranks either Shimano 105 or Shimano Ultegra. I guess the other ones could be under warranty but I don't think I want that kind of crank on my bike if they are going to bend that easily.

Open for some suggestions for some mid priced sub compact 34/46 cranks for this bike. Clueless here @ Newburg Pa.

Thanks
Zman

So I have done some research looks like

FSA makes a 34/46

FSA Omega compact haven't found it anywhere yet though

I see Niagara Cycles has a 

Origin8
CX-710 cross crankset
square taper 110 DCD
$62.90

I don't know how good that is or even it will fit my bike. I see lots of 34/50 but I want that 46 upfront.

Thanks
Zman

I got an Ultegra 46/36 for like 120 bucks.  A 34t inner cost me another 12 on Amazon.  The crankset seems to be more expensive right now though.

Volsung wrote:I got an Ultegra 46/36 for like 120 bucks.  A 34t inner cost me another 12 on Amazon.  The crankset seems to be more expensive right now though.

So did you have any shifting problems with changing down the 2 cogs? Did you have to lower your front derailleur or take links out of your chain?

Thanks
Zman

I see Jensen has one for $179.99 but with no BB(bottom bracket) How do I know if the bottom bracket on my bike now will work with this set up? I am guessing yes as specs list lots of 105 parts but I need to know 150% 4 sure before I order this crank set. Anybody have any other cheaper sources than Jenson? I will also look on Amazon and Ebay now that I know that I can switch out a 46/36 to 46/34

I see on Amazon they have 3 arm lengths

170 mm
172.5 mm
175 mm

How do I know how long mine are(sub Compact) without any specs listed on the Raleigh Specs sheet for the bike?  

Thanks for any help.
Zman

Bump

I am really hoping to get some advice here as I need to order a crank arm ASAP.


Thanks for any help
Zman

So talking to the LBS this morning I am guess the 175 mm crank arms are for those tall drinks of water. Since I have a size 12 shoe I probably would get toe overlap into the tire with the 175 mm. How do I know whether I want a 172.5 mm or a 170 mm crank arm?


Thanks
Zman 

I'm assuming you are looking at the Ultegra crankset?  I see Jenson has the 105 for 119.99, but 105 doesn't come in a 46/36, so you'd still have to get an Ultegra 46t ring, which will almost as much as the full Ultegra crankset.  As far as the bottom bracket goes, your existing could work, but I'd probably pick up a BR60 Ultegra BB (around $16) just to ensure compatibility.  I have over 5,000 on my BB, and it is still very smooth.

For crank length, I'd guess it's 172.5, which is common for a 56 frame size.  Most cranks should have the length listed somewhere on the crank itself, but it sounds like yours doesn't.  To figure out the length you will want to measure from the middle the crank spindle to the middle of the pedal spindle.

rocthrower wrote:I'm assuming you are looking at the Ultegra crankset?  I see Jenson has the 105 for 119.99, but 105 doesn't come in a 46/36, so you'd still have to get an Ultegra 46t ring, which will almost as much as the full Ultegra crankset.  As far as the bottom bracket goes, your existing could work, but I'd probably pick up a BR60 Ultegra BB (around $16) just to ensure compatibility.  I have over 5,000 on my BB, and it is still very smooth.

For crank length, I'd guess it's 172.5, which is common for a 56 frame size.  Most cranks should have the length listed somewhere on the crank itself, but it sounds like yours doesn't.  To figure out the length you will want to measure from the middle the crank spindle to the middle of the pedal spindle.

Thanks for that info rockthrower. I did call one of my bike shops this morning and his price was $255 for the ultegra and as much as I want to support him he is $50 higher than what I can get them online and that was for a 46/36 and he said that the 34 ring was only $19.00

Zman

Looking at the 2017 Tamland specs it doesn't say if it's a Shimano sized spindle (24mm) or what it is.  I'd guess Shimano but no way of telling.

Shimano cranks aren't hard to install as long as you have a bottom bracket tool, a 5mm allen key, and some good grease.  They're my favorite bike part to install and pretty much impossible to mess up if you watch a youtube video.

You can't go wrong with 105 or Ultegra.  Ultegra's just a bit nicer.  I don't see a 46/36 and outer chainrings are expensive, so get Ultegra.

Ultegra- 172.5 46/36 is $190 on Amazon and 180 on Merlincycles.com ( https://smile.amazon.com/Shimano-Ultegra-11-Speed-Crankset-172-5mm/dp/B00CSYSKFI/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1507577390&sr=1-1&keywords=shimano%2Bultegra%2Bcrankset&th=1&psc=1 )

Bottom bracket- $37 on Amazon and $30 on Merlin spring for Dura Ace since they're all similar prices.  You want English threading. https://smile.amazon.com/Shimano-Dura-Ace-BB-R9100-Bracket-English/dp/B01LYSTJXY/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1507577463&sr=1-1&keywords=dura%2Bace%2Bbottom%2Bbracket&th=1&psc=1

Park BB tool- $20 ( https://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBT-9-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B000C12BMW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1507577277&sr=8-3 )

EDIT- I should add, if it's already a Shimano BB installed you don't need a new BB.  You still need the tool to adjust the preload on the left crank arm.

Why not just change the chainring? Are you looking to upgrade and drop some weight at the same time?

The crank length is usually stamped or engraved somewhere on the inside of the arms. I would guess the bike has 175s. I wouldn't worry about toe overlap. You should run a length that works well for you. Longer cranks give you more leverage but are harder to spin, so if you're a masher or like to climb out of the saddle you might like longer cranks. If you're a spinner you might like them a little shorter. 

If it is under warranty I'd have them replace it and forget about it. Sounds like a total fluke, but if it happens again you're out nothing additional.

Well this goes to show how much I know about bike components which is nuthin. I never thought of just replacing the ring and though I would have to replace the crank arm and everything. Somehow along the way Raleigh substituted the components on my bike. It was to have a 46/34 gearing and my bike has the FSA Gossamer 50/34 gearing instead. So with the fact that the bike came with a integrated seat collar that was really scratched up and now this they might give me a credit(more than the Corporate discount)on the 2017 Roker Comp that I want to buy under warranty issues. It's like a soap opera as the Raleigh bike turns. lol


Zman

There's 46 tooth FSA 11 speed chainrings on eBay for about $30 that will get you rolling again. Though I'd grab a crescent wrench and see if you can bend that chainring straight first.

The Shimano cranks are really nice for the money but they sometimes do sneaky things with their new 4-bolt chainrings. Certain ones that look like they're cross-compatible aren't quite right. I know people that just buy new cranksets from Germany and eBay their old ones instead of buying new rings.

drwelby wrote:There's 46 tooth FSA 11 speed chainrings on eBay for about $30 that will get you rolling again. Though I'd grab a crescent wrench and see if you can bend that chainring straight first.

The Shimano cranks are really nice for the money but they sometimes do sneaky things with their new 4-bolt chainrings. Certain ones that look like they're cross-compatible aren't quite right. I know people that just buy new cranksets from Germany and eBay their old ones instead of buying new rings.

drwelby you somewhat lost me here. What cranksets are they buying from Germany? At my end I guess I am paying for my lack of knowledge of bike components and paying $175 for the entire set up even though online it was around $119 so I am paying $50 for my LBS knowledge. On another note I have been cycling for about 25 years now and have never bent a chain ring so I probably don't want another FSA chainring on this bike. Thanks for the info though and lessons learned.

Zman

Nothing generally wrong with FSA quality in my experience. Whatever bent your ring would have likely also bent a Shimano ring. \n \nWhen drwelby refers to Germany, I think he means people order the same UItegra you might get here, but cheaper. I've gotten very good deals on Shimano parts from U.K.-based web stores (e.g., Ribble). \n \nAs for picking the right crank length, check out: https://youtu.be/vUygkHlcVMQ \n \nGood luck.

By the way, Zman, you say there is no way the ring was bent during the crash... maybe not as part of your falling per se, but if you bashed the chainfree chainring into that root before falling that may be where the damage occurred. It's something MTBers sometimes have to worry about when hopping over logs. Just a thought. (I know the how doesn't really matter now.) Cheers.

junglejay wrote:By the way, Zman, you say there is no way the ring was bent during the crash... maybe not as part of your falling per se, but if you bashed the chainfree chainring into that root before falling that may be where the damage occurred. It's something MTBers sometimes have to worry about when hopping over logs. Just a thought. (I know the how doesn't really matter now.) Cheers.

When I had the crash I actually had clear the small tree root but it threw me off balance. What actually bent the chain ring IMHO was when I was on a sudden incline in a way too high of a gear and I stood up on the bike mashing some gears downshifting really quick. I heard some crazy noise and the bike wasn't shifting right after that. So maybe it wasn't the rings fault after all as I was doing/expecting the bike to do something it really shouldn't have been meant to do. Thanks though.


Zman