Roker Comp Review

Zurichman wrote:

squak not being the techy guy here you are talking about the 1x Sram Rival that came stock on it. I am not sure even what came stock on it. When you switch out to 1 x46 or 1 x 50 on the rear I know you are getting better/lower climbing gear. What are you giving up in gaps between gears or on the top for this switch?

Thanks
Zman

The stock cassette is a SRAM PG-1130 11-42.  I replaced it with a SunRace 11-46 to get an easier climbing gear.  Everything else stayed the same.  Wider range means you get wider gaps between gears--I'm OK with that.

squak wrote:

The stock cassette is a SRAM PG-1130 11-42.  I replaced it with a SunRace 11-46 to get an easier climbing gear.  Everything else stayed the same.  Wider range means you get wider gaps between gears--I'm OK with that.

Squak thanks very much for this info. I have entered 3 what I would call major or guess nice gravel races so far this year

Dirty Pecan in Fl. in March
Bootlegger 100 in Lenoir NC in April
plan on doing Funks Bottom in Ohio also

from what I am reading Bootlegger has some really nasty and major climbing in it. What I might do is get have 2 different sets of rear  wheel for the bike with the one having the 11-46 set up. Does Sram make the 11-46? Last question did you have to change the chain length when you went to put on the 11-46 or just adjust what they call the B screw?

Thanks
Zman

squak wrote:

The stock cassette is a SRAM PG-1130 11-42.  I replaced it with a SunRace 11-46 to get an easier climbing gear.  Everything else stayed the same.  Wider range means you get wider gaps between gears--I'm OK with that.

Thanks for the info here and above Squak. I haven't needed the range yet but I might once I load it up and go bikepacking. 

Has shifting been good with the Sunrace cassette? I've been having issues with mine on the low (smaller) cogs but adjusting to compensate makes me have issues on the high (bigger) cogs. I've spent a fair bit of time trying to get it perfect and can't seem to. Next step might be to pull out the cable and lube it myself then re-install.. could be excess friction I suppose

jerrduford wrote:

Thanks for the info here and above Squak. I haven't needed the range yet but I might once I load it up and go bikepacking. 

Has shifting been good with the Sunrace cassette? I've been having issues with mine on the low (smaller) cogs but adjusting to compensate makes me have issues on the high (bigger) cogs. I've spent a fair bit of time trying to get it perfect and can't seem to. Next step might be to pull out the cable and lube it myself then re-install.. could be excess friction I suppose

\n \nNo noticeable difference in shifting performance between the SRAM and SunRace cassettes. Shifting is good, but not great. \n \nI've been thinking about replacing the shifter cable too. Mostly because I don't like how it's routed into the right side of the downtube. Looks weird and results in an extra bend (that may or may not affect shifting).

Does it say where it was built?  I had a Tamland built in China and didn't care for it at all.  Not sure what the culprit was, but I suspect the tubes were lower quality steel and too fat/stiff for what the bike was supposed to be.  I have a Surly now and a world of difference and it's only 4130.  

canuckystan wrote:Does it say where it was built?  I had a Tamland built in China and didn't care for it at all.  Not sure what the culprit was, but I suspect the tubes were lower quality steel and too fat/stiff for what the bike was supposed to be.  I have a Surly now and a world of difference and it's only 4130.  

canuckystan what Tamland do you own? Not much experience here as I owned a cheapo used Schwinn Highlander before that was just a tad above a Wally World(Walmart)bike. My 2016 Tamland 1 to me seemed like a great bike it soaked up the vibrations like crazy. I really didn't get a chance to get in decent shape in 2017 because of some medical issues so if I was in shape it probably would have been fine. As it was it seemed a little bit heavy once I got in tough mt. climbing off road areas.  If I was racing/riding in Kansas it would be fine. I really plan on riding/racing some crazy courses in 2018 with one of them being the Bootlegger 100 which I hear is a bugger of a hilly/tough course. I hope to be in much better shape by April 21st when that is being run and have my 2017 Roker Comp all dialed in by then.

To show you how little I know about gravel bikes my thought process of the Surly bikes is a heavy weight built like a tank road/touring bike that you can't destroy. I had a friend loan me one the other fall but can't remember what it was. It was more like a hybrid bike though and really heavy.

Lots of salt here on the road right now and so no I can't even think of taking the new Roker out in it but plan on taking the Tamland out in it.

Enjoy your Surly
Zman

I had the first year Tamland 1 and sold it after a year.  It just rode heavy, no response to the frame, rust formed quick.  Surly makes a heavy bike on a scale, but boy, do they ride nice despite what the scale says.  Has to be something in the quality of the steel, the gauge, I don't know, but night and day difference in my view.  Surly built in Taiwan not China, not sure if that's a factor or not.

I've also got a 2017 Salsa Fargo for gravel duty.

canuckystan wrote:I had the first year Tamland 1 and sold it after a year.  It just rode heavy, no response to the frame, rust formed quick.  Surly makes a heavy bike on a scale, but boy, do they ride nice despite what the scale says.  Has to be something in the quality of the steel, the gauge, I don't know, but night and day difference in my view.  Surly built in Taiwan not China, not sure if that's a factor or not.

I've also got a 2017 Salsa Fargo for gravel duty.

Not sure what the first year was for the Tamland guessing 2015 or before. Maybe some of the suggestions here from Ted Guitar improved the bikes. My bike was/is very responsive. It's the motor guy that isn't. My Roker has hydraulic brakes. I consider myself a climber and weaker on the descents so heck yeah I luv the hydraulic brakes on the Roker night and day difference. When you hit the brakes the bike stops, on the mechanical there was a delay for me and scares the jeebers out of me.

Zman

I've got the Roker Sport - same frame/fork as the comp but the parts are downgraded: Tiagra 2x10 drivetrain instead of SRAM 1x11, and TRP mech. disk's instead of the hydraulic.  I think everything else is pretty much the same...

I've only been out for a couple short rides as I'm having difficulty dialing in the Tiagra's FD.  Despite my best efforts I can't seem to get the cable tight enough to avoid the FD rubbing when I'm in the 11t cog. Ugh!!!   One of the issues (IMO) is the limited range of the in-line cable adjustment barrel.  The frame mount adjusters offer much greater range.  The Tiagra 10spd shifter might also be part of the problem.  I'm almost at the point of pulling off the drivetrain and replacing it with a SRAM Red group I have from a prior bike...

As for ride, the long rake and relaxed HT angle provide for a very stable ride and lots of toe clearance with the stock 40mm Clement tires.  The bike loves to be counter steered (aka leaning into turns) and is forgiving when changing the line during a corner (read: not at all twitchy).  As expected with this geometry, at slow speeds one can feel the wheel flop but it's not so much as to create a problem.  Despite the wheel flop I'm comfortable making tight figure 8's.

The frame has a nice stiff BB and chain stays.  Lots of jump when I stand...  Well lots of jump for a bike with 40mm tires. :-)

The TRP Spyre mech disk brakes work well - I can definitely feel increased brake force over my bikes with canti's.  Since the pads haven't been bedded-in, I expect stopping will only improve.  I don't know if anyone has tried this, but it appears one could add an adapter to fit a larger diameter disk on the front to get even more stopping power...  

Is anyone running the Clement MSO's tubeless with sealant?  The rims are supposed to be tubeless ready and I'd like to go that direction in the future.  God bless the goathead bushes!

BTW, in case anyone is comparing... 
Weight of the stock 60cm Roker Sport is 21.7 pounds without pedals, bottle cages, pump and pack.  Fully configured it's right at 24 pounds.

Changes:
1. Replaced the stock seat with a Sella that fits my butt.
2. Will get Tiagra shifting working or replace the drive train.
3. Will replace stock bars with some 3T carbon for a smoother ride and shape to match other bikes.
4. Will go tubeless... it's just a matter of time.

Cheers,
Greg

[QUOTE=canuckystan  Surly built in Taiwan not China, not sure if that's a factor or not.

I've also got a 2017 Salsa Fargo for gravel duty.[/QUOTE]

The Tamland frame is built it Taiwan, same factory as Surly but the bike is assembled in China. Reynolds 631 tubing is much lighter, stronger (thinner walls) and a far better ride quality than 4130 in my opinion.

NoCoGreg wrote:

Is anyone running the Clement MSO's tubeless with sealant?  The rims are supposed to be tubeless ready and I'd like to go that direction in the future.  God bless the goathead bushes!

The Clement MSO's are easy to setup tubeless and hold air really well.  Great tires.

How do you like the 58cm?  I'm 6'0" with a 32" inseam, and I can't decide between ordering the 56cm or 58cm.  The 58cm geometry matches up closely with the 56cm Kona Rove, which I've ridden and I like the fit of it.   

Yeah NoCoGreg(congrats on the Roker Purchase)I had the shop set up my Roker Comp tubeless no problems. I am not enough of a bike mechanic to install the front caliper + I had those warranty issues with the rear derailleur bent into the wheel. I have read up as much as I can on the Raleigh bikes and your report confirms that. The Roker Comp is about 2 lbs. lighter than the Roker Sport so yes my bike weighs in at around 22 lbs as it weighed 20 lbs. 12 oz. with the wheel reflectors still on. I am hoping to get out in the next couple of day and give the bike a whirl. The problem I am having in my mind is I can't bear to take the new Roker out on the nasty salty roads we have right now where I have no problem doing that with the Tamland.

Zman

If you guys like the Raleigh gravel bikes, stay tuned for a new start up company by the folks who did the all those bikes. Check out Noble Bikes Facebook page. Website update coming soon. Some bikes being launched at Sea Otter. Good stuff! 😉 

Bikeventure wrote:How do you like the 58cm?  I'm 6'0" with a 32" inseam, and I can't decide between ordering the 56cm or 58cm.  The 58cm geometry matches up closely with the 56cm Kona Rove, which I've ridden and I like the fit of it.   

Probably would recommend the 56 cm as I think these bike fit big. I ride a 57 cm Lemonds and am 6 ft. with a 34" inseam. I have the 56 cm 2016 Tamland and a 2017 Roker Comp and they fit me good.

Zman

You better buy one soon as I thing the 56 cm cm size is a popular size and won't stick around long.

Bikeventure wrote:How do you like the 58cm?  I'm 6'0" with a 32" inseam, and I can't decide between ordering the 56cm or 58cm.  The 58cm geometry matches up closely with the 56cm Kona Rove, which I've ridden and I like the fit of it.   

I'm 6' with a 34.25" inseam (crotch to floor).  I got the 58cm based on the stack and reach numbers and I'm happy with the fit.  

I’m 6’ with a 32” inseam, I have a 58 Roker Sport, fits great. I love the bike, got it about a month ago. Haven’t ridden it much yet, as it is Fat Bike season in North Dakota, been on my fat bike lately. Sub zero temps are no fun without pogies, my fatty has them the Roker doesn’t. \n \nNo shipping damage issues when I received my bike. I put it together, shifted okay. I have a derailleur alignment tool, so thought I’d check my bike. It was off a bit, not bad, tweaked it straight, and it shifts like a dream. I went with the Sport over the comp, as I’m not a big fan of 1x, and I prefer Shimano over SRAM. The Clement tires are nice, but I swapped them out for some 43mm Panaracer Gravelkings, set up tubeless. \n \nlooking forward to getting some miles on this bike.

Bikeventure wrote:How do you like the 58cm?  I'm 6'0" with a 32" inseam, and I can't decide between ordering the 56cm or 58cm.  The 58cm geometry matches up closely with the 56cm Kona Rove, which I've ridden and I like the fit of it.   

I'm not sure what size you should get.I do not have my Roker,but went with A 58cm.
But like Zman said these  bike fit big.

I'm about 6' 2 1/2" and about  32.5" bike inseam.Short legs for my height.
After thinking it over.Asking A few owners here and at the bikeforum.net and
looking at what bicycle fits me best now.Also I'm not going to use it just for gravel.
Also looked at two adventure type today and over  the summer.
One was the  co-op ADV 3.1.The 60cm SOH and ST would be way to tall for me.But it comes down to personal preference.And thanks everyone for answering some of my questions.


I decided to go with 58cm sport.Can always go one size up on the stem Length if needed.

Do not forget save5 code and Active Junky if buying from Raleigh corp.
First time I used Active Junky.But they sent me A confirm email right after I made my purchase.

Here is A interesting read on Accell North America  the company that owns Raleigh,DB and few others.

http://www.bicycleretailer.com/industry-news/2018/01/18/ana-releases-new-omnichannel-program-ibds#.WmLW6ainHIV

What is this corporate account I keep reading so much about?