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Bikeventure wrote:What is this corporate account I keep reading so much about?
canuckystan wrote:
The Tamland frame is built it Taiwan, same factory as Surly but the bike is assembled in China. Reynolds 631 tubing is much lighter, stronger (thinner walls) and a far better ride quality than 4130 in my opinion.
Well I certainly don't believe this at all. My Tamland said right on the frame, "Made in China". Not assembled there. Same factory as Surly? Yeah right.
DPCX wrote:
Sorry canuckstan, I know what I'm talking about. The factory that builds the Surly, Raleigh road (high end) and even Ritchey is called Maxway in Taiwan (outside of Taichung). http://www.maxway-cycles.com/
If there was a sticker that said "made in China" on the frame it was mistake. The box will always say "made in China" since that is where final assembly is.
haha
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\nDPDPCX wrote:Hi Zurichman, This info is pretty old (but its totally cool and wish they would update). Also, look closer, Raleigh is actually in Kent Washington (south of Seattle) not Idaho. 😉 The Tamland wasn't released until summer of 2013 and several more higher end steel drop bar bikes followed in 2014 model year. All from Maxway factory. I've been to Maxway and even have a super sweet custom stainless steel RXM (the steel Raleigh cross bike) they built for me and three other Raleigh product guys. One of my all time favorite bikes. In hindsight though, I wish I had done a stainless Tamland instead.haha DP
DPCX wrote:Ha! No need for a corp account here, I've been slowly liquidating all my Raleigh's over the last year myself. On to big and better. (Noble Bikes)![]()
Cant remember the pricing on a stainless. Before the big re-org and brand direction change (2016) I had seriously considered doing a limited edition stainless Tamland. The idea got cut when I left (along with all carbon bikes, Merits, Rokers, RXC (well all cyclocross for that matter) and of course all mtn bike (Skarn, Tekoa, Tokul, Kodiak). We had a good thing going for a while but things change and its kinda bitter sweet to see all this chatter on here about bikes we did and what could have been. Oh well, that happens when all the higher ups worry about is numbers. 😉
DPCX wrote:Well, if you all like the direction Raleigh was going with gravel, cross and mtn bikes a couple years ago, there is still hope. 😉 Check out (and like) the Noble Bikes facebook page and follow along this new start up company. They are officially launching at Sea Otter and an updated website at the same time. If you scroll back several months (on the FB page) you can read about how this company got started. Super excited for this to take off.
I spent some quality time in the garage tinkering with my Roker Comp this weekend and found a couple of things that other owners might find useful.
From the beginning shifting performance was just OK, but I chalked it up to getting used to SRAM Double Tap. 500 miles later I’m still convinced that Shimano STI is the better system, but decided to look at my setup to see if anything was misadjusted, misaligned, etc. I was one of the unlucky people who received my bike with a bent derailleur hanger and made the mistake of assuming the new replacement hanger was straight—nope, the new hanger needed to be aligned. I also replaced the shifter cable—mostly because routing it to the right side of the head tube/down tube looks wrong and adds an unnecessary extra bend. When I removed the cable I was disappointed to find that it was badly kinked in 3 or 4 places. Whoever installed the cable/housing is seriously ham-fisted and probably hates internal cable routing. Running a new cable through the frame isn’t too difficult and I didn’t mind going through the process of figuring it out. When I replaced the cable I also fine-tuned the b-screw, high/low stops and cable tension. Shifting is noticeably improved—requires less force at the shift lever and the chain is less “reluctant” as it moves up/down the cassette.
NoCoGreg wrote:I've got the Roker Sport - same frame/fork as the comp but the parts are downgraded: Tiagra 2x10 drivetrain instead of SRAM 1x11, and TRP mech. disk's instead of the hydraulic. I think everything else is pretty much the same...
I've only been out for a couple short rides as I'm having difficulty dialing in the Tiagra's FD. Despite my best efforts I can't seem to get the cable tight enough to avoid the FD rubbing when I'm in the 11t cog. Ugh!!! One of the issues (IMO) is the limited range of the in-line cable adjustment barrel. The frame mount adjusters offer much greater range. The Tiagra 10spd shifter might also be part of the problem. I'm almost at the point of pulling off the drivetrain and replacing it with a SRAM Red group I have from a prior bike...
As for ride, the long rake and relaxed HT angle provide for a very stable ride and lots of toe clearance with the stock 40mm Clement tires. The bike loves to be counter steered (aka leaning into turns) and is forgiving when changing the line during a corner (read: not at all twitchy). As expected with this geometry, at slow speeds one can feel the wheel flop but it's not so much as to create a problem. Despite the wheel flop I'm comfortable making tight figure 8's.
The frame has a nice stiff BB and chain stays. Lots of jump when I stand... Well lots of jump for a bike with 40mm tires. :-)
The TRP Spyre mech disk brakes work well - I can definitely feel increased brake force over my bikes with canti's. Since the pads haven't been bedded-in, I expect stopping will only improve. I don't know if anyone has tried this, but it appears one could add an adapter to fit a larger diameter disk on the front to get even more stopping power...
Is anyone running the Clement MSO's tubeless with sealant? The rims are supposed to be tubeless ready and I'd like to go that direction in the future. God bless the goathead bushes!
BTW, in case anyone is comparing...
Weight of the stock 60cm Roker Sport is 21.7 pounds without pedals, bottle cages, pump and pack. Fully configured it's right at 24 pounds.
Changes:
1. Replaced the stock seat with a Sella that fits my butt.
2. Will get Tiagra shifting working or replace the drive train.
3. Will replace stock bars with some 3T carbon for a smoother ride and shape to match other bikes.
4. Will go tubeless... it's just a matter of time.
Cheers,
Greg
zimdba wrote:
I would also look at replacing the seatpost. I found that to be a big help in comfort. I'm actually OK with the handlebars. I don't get too much fatigue in the hands/shoulders.
As far as the Clements: I thought they were great, until they wouldn't seal. I had one puncture, and I couldn't get it to seal because all of the sealant had dried out after 3 weeks. OK, that's on me to check, but I thought 3 weeks was a little soon for it to dry out. So back at home, I tried to get it to seal. I ended up getting sealant all over the bike because the tire just would not seal.
I decided that I couldn't risk a tire not sealing out in the field. I ended up throwing both tires in the trash and replacing them with true tubeless tires (Maxxis Ramblers). They're very grippy, maybe not the fastest rolling tire. I checked my sealant level after 6 weeks or so, and the sealant level was fine.
Zurichman wrote:
zimdba
Being the newbie here how do you check the sealant in your tires?
Zman
Yakswak wrote:I don’t think FEDEX handled the bike wrong. Raleigh should unattach the rear derrailuer when shipping.
![Frown - :( [frown]](https://cdn.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/frown.gif)
jjbnum3 wrote:
Add me to the list of receiving A damage Raleigh Roker.
The box was in good shape(Fedex).Raleigh even added extra cardboard around the
derailleur.I agree they need to ship their bikes with derailleur off,at least with their carbon frames ones.The two steel Raleigh I order from Amazon last month had no damage.One was A Carlton 8 Mixte for my wife.
The hanger was bent with the derailleur smashed into the spokes of the rear wheel.Filled out the warranty info today.I'm going to ask for A replacement or see if they can have A local dealer fix it.
And I made of mistake of unwrapping most of the packing before checking the derrailur/hanger for damage.
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