The air bubbles smooth out with finger pressure, with this tape being semi transparent you can actually see them. I didn't get 100% smooth still some air bubs in there. I used two strips and next time will apply one strip, trim and smooth bubbles then add next layer of tape. The 24mm width fit perfectly in my rims which are 21mm IW.
I used a hair dryer to warm the rims before adding tape and afterwards to see if there was any reaction from the tape to the heat.
How do they hold air? Well overnight was normal minor losses and after some hard rides everything is A-OK. 55yards for $6.41 is worth a try in my books and so far so good. Next I am going to try a home brew sealant because I change tires a lot. With spillage and waste the cost adds up. The one I am going to start with is from GT's blog please chime in if you have any secret formulas.
I also plan to experiment with the 3M product. I believe the tape is pressure sensitive. The key to removing air bubbles may be to get more pressure on the tape. One way to do that would be to install a tube first and inflate to about 100 PSI. Has anyone tried this method?
I have made several batches of my own sealant so far. Have had good luck with each and it has been fun. There is a LONG thread on the forums at MTBR.com Search for 'OSS' Open Source Sealant or WSS. Lots of discussion about adding glitter, railroad modeling gravel, corn starch, xantham gum etc. Also discussion about if Ammonia is beneficial or if it damages rims etc.
So far the recipe I have been happy with is: 16 oz. mold maker 6 tbsp ammonia 16 oz. propylene glycol 2 tsp. xanthan gum 32 oz. distilled water
Order to add: • 16 oz water • 16 oz PG • 2 tsp xantham gum (1 tsp next time?) • 3 oz ammonia Mix with drill • Add 16 oz latex mold builder Mix with drill
but I did the first step in smaller steps and slowly added the xanthan gum to make sure it wetted properly. The other advice I would offer is make sure the latex rubber is still pretty liquid / viscous not solid/clumpy. First batch I made was an older container of latex (all the store had) and it was clumpy from the beginning. The liquid part still sealed holes ok, but it essentially started with "Stan's Boogers" Later batches have been much better.
Also, Hobby lobby and Michael's etc seem to be the best source for the latex rubber and they always seem to have coupons online that you can print out and get ~40% or so off one item. Really makes the homebrew more economical.
trippertim wrote:I have made several batches of my own sealant so far.
So far the recipe I have been happy with is: 16 oz. mold maker 6 tbsp ammonia 16 oz. propylene glycol 2 tsp. xanthan gum 32 oz. distilled water
Order to add: • 16 oz water • 16 oz PG • 2 tsp xantham gum (1 tsp next time?) • 3 oz ammonia Mix with drill • Add 16 oz latex mold builder Mix with drill
but I did the first step in smaller steps and slowly added the xanthan gum to make sure it wetted properly. The other advice I would offer is make sure the latex rubber is still pretty liquid / viscous not solid/clumpy. First batch I made was an older container of latex (all the store had) and it was clumpy from the beginning. The liquid part still sealed holes ok, but it essentially started with "Stan's Boogers" Later batches have been much better.
Also, Hobby lobby and Michael's etc seem to be the best source for the latex rubber and they always seem to have coupons online that you can print out and get ~40% or so off one item. Really makes the homebrew more economical.
Do you add the left over 16 oz of water and 3 oz of ammonia from your first recipe (or does 6 Tb=3 oz) after that second mixing with the drill?
Do you add the left over 16 oz of water and 3 oz of ammonia from your first recipe (or does 6 Tb=3 oz) after that second mixing with the drill?
Sorry, my bad, that was a copy paste from the MTBR.com forum. 1 oz is 2 tbsp, so that equals out, but the last 16 oz of water goes in at the end with the latex. I have not really seen where it makes a difference if it is done right before or right after.
The big one for me was making sure to add the xantham gum (or whatever solid you use) slowly to make sure it gets mixed well. I basically sprinkle it in while mixing. The first time I dumped it all in at once and it clumped and would not mix in.
Thanks for the tips all. Just missed the 40% off @ Michaels it's now 30% which is pretty good,for the latex. That's some read on the mtb thread. I decided to go with this mix for starters, easily sourced and about 1/3 the price of retail juice. I will start gathering the ingredients today. I'll update here as I progress with my mix. http://www.binarybike.com/2012/08/bootleg-home-brew-tubeless-tire-sealant.html
This is worth sharing, I bought the $3 RV antifreeze , and $10.00 automotive slime. and mixed up a batch with 3 oz slime 4 0z AF by volume. Went easily into solution.
Test Results: WTB NANO 40 on WTB I23 rim could not get to seal without sealant it would bead then empty. Poured in about 2oz of sealant and it aired right up and is solid. No leaks. I could see sealant around rim bead sealing bubbles.
I also found another way to put sealant in tire... Instead of popping the tire off one side of the rim and pouring in at the 6 o clock position then rotating tire.
Here's how I did it. Simply move the bead to the other side of rim at the top and slowly pour sealant in rim channel at 12 o clock position and let run down to bottom. Works great.
This is a tire wheel combo I don't currently use because it is QR. My test will be based on monitoring PSI daily on this static set up.
SO far so good! I am hopeful this will be the only solution I need. Has anyone else tried just these two ingredients
Cost ~2.44 per 8 oz with latex or about .90 without or about $10 per 32 oz WLX
Thought I'd resurrect this thread to see if there are others who are using Tesa 4289, Scotch 8898 or something similar and what the experiences have been.
I've used Gorilla and after a couple years the sealant, Stan's on one bike and Orange Seal on another, seeped through the Gorilla Tape resulting in failure of the adhesive and leaks. Worse yet, the Gorilla Tape left an awful mess which was a PITA to cleanup.
I've also used Tesa 4289 and the 25% thinner 4288 (purchased because I couldn't find the 4289 in needed width). Both have worked well for my applications on gravel and mountain bikes. Note that because it is thinner I've always applied a double wrap of 4288.
NoCoGreg wrote:Thought I'd resurrect this thread to see if there are others who are using Tesa 4289, Scotch 8898 or something similar and what the experiences have been.
I've used Gorilla and after a couple years the sealant, Stan's on one bike and Orange Seal on another, seeped through the Gorilla Tape resulting in failure of the adhesive and leaks. Worse yet, the Gorilla Tape left an awful mess which was a PITA to cleanup.
I've also used Tesa 4289 and the 25% thinner 4288 (purchased because I couldn't find the 4289 in needed width). Both have worked well for my applications on gravel and mountain bikes. Note that because it is thinner I've always applied a double wrap of 4288.
That is all interesting information, thank you! I have used Tesa 4289 extensively (sold by November Bicycles) and I love it. I did not know there was a difference with 4288/4289. I really dislike Gorilla Tape, for all the aforementioned reasons. I'll say it again, the adhesive and thickness are a deadly combination! I have also tried the 3M/Scotch 8898 and while it goes on the rim and holds air fine, it delamintates something awful upon removal. So I would stick with the Tesa or Stans. I always like to purchase shop-length (60yd) rolls as well, since for just a few more dollars you basically get a lifetime supply of tape that doesn't seem to ever expire. Besides November, Maple Wheels and Analog also sell high quality tubeless tape for cheap.
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