Jamis Renegade. Ultegra 50/34 up front. 11-36 11 speed out back. Medium cage r/d.
So...with a full length chain and no RoadLink it worked but when on the 36t cog the chain rumbled because it was too close to the cassette. B-screw turned all the way in. It worked and shifted fine and I could ride it like that. But I was worried it might cause problems.
So, I ordered the Wolftooth RoadLink. Installed it and now I've lost gears. When in the 34/36 it's fine. But if I shift 4 cogs down the chain goes slack and either skips or comes off. When in the 50 I can't shift onto the 36t. Yeah...I know cross chaining isn't the best thing but I do it anyways on occasion and regardless of whether I should or shouldn't...I should be able to at least actually do it. But now I can't.
So...anyone have any ideas or is this just the way it's going to be if I want to run a 36t cassette with Shimano crap? I have to drop from 11 speed to 10 speed and run a 34t cassette. Or worse yet drop all the way to a 32t cassette. If I had the money I'd just swap out to Sram and be done with it. At least they have their act together but I don't have $750 laying around to make the switch.
Those are some strange symptoms it seems to me. I don't see how those could be caused simply by adding the RoadLink. A RoadLink only extends the dropout 1" and I don't think it should cause the chain to go slack or cause you being unable to shift to the 36. Perhaps it's a dropout alignment issue or maybe even an chain length issue.
As for me, I'm running that same combination with no problems - 50/34 in front, Ultegra GS RD & SRAM 11-36 cassette. In fact, I was running it w/o a RoadLink with no problems. I only installed it to give me a little more chain tension as the chain has been dropping off the bottom of the chainring on bumpy roads. Regardless, when I installed the RoadLink, it really didn't change anything as far as shifting or hitting, or losing, any gears.
So my problem is dropping chains - I think mostly because of a lack of spring tension on the RD. I sure wish Shimano would make a road derailleur w/a clutch. I'm planning to convert to Di2 soon but doubt that will help. But I will consider switching to the XT RD when it come out later this year.
You used to be able to set the spring tension higher on Shimano derailleurs - you took out the little rotation stop and let the cage unwind which released it from the body. Inside there was another hole you can put the end of the spring in that would give you more tension. Then you just wind the cage back up and put the stop back in. I just don't know if it still works these days.
Back to the OP. Since it worked except for B tension without the road link, then it seems like there's something weird going on. When you say you can shift in the 50-36, does that mean it doesn't want to move over, or that it can't because the capacity is maxed out and the chain isn't long enough to wrap around both?
Yeah...it doesn't make sense. When I got the bike the dealer installed the new 50/34 rings and the 11-36 cassette and screwed the b-screw all the way in. But it wouldn't shift onto the 36 cog because it still had the original chain which was too short since it was for the stock 11-28 cassette that we swapped out. So...I had a new full length chain which was only two links longer so I put that on and it worked. Only issue like I said was that the upper pulley was very close to the 36 cog so I got rumbling anytime I shifted onto it. But the shifting was perfect.
So...today I tried a longer b-screw but that didn't do anything. All I need is like 1-2mm and I think it would be good to go. My buddy has a 2016 Renegade (mine is a 2015) and he has the same r/d and is running a 36t cassette without the RoadLink and it's perfect.
Anyways...I installed the RoadLink with the full length chain and when I run through the gears...when on the 50 everything is good. When on the 34, like I said...third cog down the chain went completely slack. Wolftooth suggested shortening the chain so I popped off a link and tried again. Figured I'd go one link at a time. Well...now when in the 50 it will shift onto the 36 but it has the r/d so stretched forward and it's making all kinds of noise...it would probably be seconds from destruction if I tried riding it like that. When on the 34 up front...the chain goes slack on the forth cog down instead of the third. Shifting is good. I did a 22 mile ride and just paid really close attention to gearing so that I didn't drop the chain or explode the r/d...which was a pita but it worked. But I certainly don't want to do that every ride.
So yeah...no idea what's up...especially since my buddy can run his without the RoadLink just fine and he used one on a different bike (Cannondale CAADX) with the same drivetrain setup and it worked great. I'm about 2 seconds from just placing an order for SRAM shifters/brakes since I already have a long cage r/d and a 2x f/d and calling it a day...lol
Ok...well...it would seem that I am in fact an idiot. After comparing the length of my cage to my buddy's cage (insert manhood jokes here), it seems that his is about an inch longer meaning I do in fact actually have a short cage which I would say is probably 99.9% chance why I'm having the issues I'm having.
So...I'm off to go medium cage derailleur shopping.
drwelby wrote:Your medium cage rear derailleur has a rated chain capacity of 33, but with a 34/50 and 11-36 you're exceeding that with 41.
Your easiest fix is to find any recent 9 speed Shimano mountain derailleur. It will work fine with the 11 speed road shifters and derailleur, and the latest models were able to shift to a 36 cog (since Shimano offered a 36 in their "29er" mini-line).
You can get this Deore 951 one, it's I believe from their touring group and it has a barrel adjuster. Otherwise the more MTB oriented Deore 952 and XT 772 will work too and maybe even slightly better, but they don't have barrel adjusters and since your shifter doesn't either you'll have to add one inline somewhere. You won't need the RoadLink with these derailleurs.
Alternatively, if you're trying to get a lower range and never use your biggest gears, switch to subcompact crank and a smaller cassette. An 11-32 cassette with a 30/46 crank would probably work fine with your rear derailleur.
I thought that 11 speed Shimano shifters dont work with any MTB RD?
DrSpoke wrote:Those are some strange symptoms it seems to me. I don't see how those could be caused simply by adding the RoadLink. A RoadLink only extends the dropout 1" and I don't think it should cause the chain to go slack or cause you being unable to shift to the 36. Perhaps it's a dropout alignment issue or maybe even an chain length issue.
As for me, I'm running that same combination with no problems - 50/34 in front, Ultegra GS RD & SRAM 11-36 cassette. In fact, I was running it w/o a RoadLink with no problems. I only installed it to give me a little more chain tension as the chain has been dropping off the bottom of the chainring on bumpy roads. Regardless, when I installed the RoadLink, it really didn't change anything as far as shifting or hitting, or losing, any gears.
So my problem is dropping chains - I think mostly because of a lack of spring tension on the RD. I sure wish Shimano would make a road derailleur w/a clutch. I'm planning to convert to Di2 soon but doubt that will help. But I will consider switching to the XT RD when it come out later this year.
I agree -- haven't had any problems running a Roadlink with my 105 11 speed rear der. and a 46/36 up front and an 11-40 cogset. Bent hanger is a likely cause. Hangers are made from softer alu alloy and are designed to bend on impact to avoid damage to the frame. I have a Park tool to check my hanger allignment --but since replacement hangers are cheap, you might as well just replace it and see if your shifting improves.
bobknh wrote: I agree -- haven't had any problems running a Roadlink with my 105 11 speed rear der. and a 46/36 up front and an 11-40 cogset. Bent hanger is a likely cause. Hangers are made from softer alu alloy and are designed to bend on impact to avoid damage to the frame. I have a Park tool to check my hanger allignment --but since replacement hangers are cheap, you might as well just replace it and see if your shifting improves.
This the one I'm using: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YMGQ79G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's a Shimano 11 speed Mtn bike cassette. Works great with my Haanjo's 105 medium cage rear der. with the Wolftooth Roadlink hanger adapter.
They don't work with the 10 or 11 speed models (sold as "Dynasys") unless the cable pull is modified. But you can use 9 speed or older MTB derailleurs since they had the same leverage ratio as the road models. There were not clutched cages at that time, though.
Are you sure? I think only 10 speed brifters work with 9 speed MTB RDs. As far as I know, 11 speed Shimano road shifters will not work with any MTB RD.
bobknh wrote: This the one I'm using: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YMGQ79G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's a Shimano 11 speed Mtn bike cassette. Works great with my Haanjo's 105 medium cage rear der. with the Wolftooth Roadlink hanger adapter.
Thanks. Am ordering the same. The Roadlinks and a 11-40.
I too have bought the xt 11-40 11 speed cassette and it is mated with 105 11 speed shifter and 105 gs rear derailleur and roadlink.
\nThe chain doesn't have a huge amount of tension in 30 to 11 but it is fine. I have a Sugino 44/30 crankset on the front due to the hilly nature of the brevet riding here in NZ.
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\nIt also means that when I go cross racing I can stay in the 44 and just use it as a 1 by 11.
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\nCheers
RoadieRick wrote:I too have bought the xt 11-40 11 speed cassette and it is mated with 105 11 speed shifter and 105 gs rear derailleur and roadlink. The chain doesn't have a huge amount of tension in 30 to 11 but it is fine. I have a Sugino 44/30 crankset on the front due to the hilly nature of the brevet riding here in NZ. It also means that when I go cross racing I can stay in the 44 and just use it as a 1 by 11. Cheers
I have the 11-40 with a 34/46 on my bike. Want to put a similar low gearing on my wife's bike, but she has a 30/46 crankset. Do you think it would work?
Roadlink says that the max difference in teeth for crankset should be 14. This would be 16, and I see that you are running with 14?
RoadieRick wrote:I too have bought the xt 11-40 11 speed cassette and it is mated with 105 11 speed shifter and 105 gs rear derailleur and roadlink. The chain doesn't have a huge amount of tension in 30 to 11 but it is fine. I have a Sugino 44/30 crankset on the front due to the hilly nature of the brevet riding here in NZ. It also means that when I go cross racing I can stay in the 44 and just use it as a 1 by 11. Cheers
I have the 11-40 with a 34/46 on my bike. Want to put a similar low gearing on my wife's bike, but she has a 30/46 crankset. Do you think it would work?
Roadlink says that the max difference in teeth for crankset should be 12. This would be 16, and I see that you are running with 14?
I think the slack in the 30/11 would be too much? Is that the only issue? What if she never runs it in that combination?
Are you sure? I think only 10 speed brifters work with 9 speed MTB RDs. As far as I know, 11 speed Shimano road shifters will not work with any MTB RD.
Wolf Tooth Components Tanpan allows Shimano 11 road shifters to work with their 11 spd MTB derailluers. There's also Jtek Engineering in the UK that covers pretty much every shifter/deraailleur mix & match combo.
So I've read this entire thread. Have two Jamis Renegade Exploits (2017) I would like to switch from 11-32 to 11-36 (I am thinking of using SRAM's PG-1170). Crankset is 105 50/34 and I believe RD is 105 medium. Roadlink website says it supports double chainring paired with 11s 11/36 so long as the delta between the chainrings is no more than 14 teeth. I have a 16-tooth difference in the front.
However, from the discussion above, it would appear the Roadlink will work well so long as I have the right chain length in place. I even wonder whether I should try the 11-36 cassette without the Roadlink before buying one.
I’ve been running the roadlink with a 50/34 and 11-36 with a Shimano mid-cage derailleur (GS) since around April of last year. I’ve had no issues and it still shifts fine, but I try to stay out of the 34-11 and 34-12 combos as the chain gets a little loose there, and there is no real reason to be in that gear anyways. I'd seen the reports that people were running the same set up with just the B-tension adjustment, but figured why push the boundaries and end up getting stuck in the middle of nowhere or in the middle of a race when I found a problem when the roadlink is pretty inexpensive and easy to set up.
