Any reasons not to upgrade Sora equipped Haanjo to Deore instead of 105s?

Howdy, \n \nI am supposed to receive a Diamondback Haanjo tomorrow. It comes equipped with the Sora gears. Are there any reasons not to upgrade the Sora equipped Haanjo to Deore (MTB) components instead of Shimano 105s? I currently use Deore on my mountain bike, the dérailleurs have held up and been good to me. I understand about the handlebars being different on drop bars so I've ordered a set of Trekking handlebars which accept MTB components. I wanted more hand positions than a straight bar, but I have lots of Deore parts and pieces that I can use. Anyone know of any reasons that this is not a good idea? \n \nThanks, \nO B Real

I think the Deore would be easier to set up

eta: I am running Sora with brifters now on a willard. The Sora 2x9 has been very reliable and trouble free over 1500 miles, no issues shifts smoothly.

You can more easily get broader gearing options out of a mtn setup. It sounds like you're thinking of swapping out nearly all of the components - is that right? If not, there are a few different 'sticking points' in compatibility.

Ditching the 'brifters'...?

• Road-specific brake levers and mtn specific brake levers have different pull ratios and generally only work with brake calipers that match.
• There is some compatibility between some road/mtn shifters and derailleurs, but it's far from universal. It sounds like you'd be matching mtn shifter with mtn derailleur?

Yes, I was planning on getting the whole Deore group set. I plan on using all mountain components, they seem generally a little more economical and cheaper to maintain and they have certainly been reliable. That's why I've bought the butterfly trekking handlebars, they take mountain components but if I commute regularly the supplied straight bar will get old rather quickly. \n \nO B Real

Of course on the supplied Sora components I'll heed, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Have you checked out Jones bars, I used them on a couple bikes and really liked them. Many hand positions.  http://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bar/

I would suggest that you also take into consideration your reach to the bars.  This would be especially if the bike you ordered is the correct fit using road bars.  With road bars, the top tube length takes into consideration the length of the stem, the reach of the bars and the additional reach of the shifters.  Flat bars generally use a shorter stem, are swept back and there is no additional reach for the shifters.  Accordingly, mountain bikes general have a longer top tube length for any given rider as compared to road frames.  In my case, I ride a road bike with a 20.6" (52.5cm) top tube but my mountain bikes have a 23" top tube - a difference of over 2".  If I were to order a drop bar frame for use with flat bars then I would definitely go up a size in order to get a proper fit and weight distribution. 

I have a few different components lying around, several lengths and angles of stems, seat posts some that that are swept back, straight, etc. I hope to get some close idea of how I want like it set up and then I'll probably order the correct components that will help me dial it right in. I am still looking at bars and I'll certainly look into the H-Bar, I have seen a post about them earlier. I just ordered some inexpensive, generic Butterfly trekking bars to try out the style. I am not sure how this project will turn eventually turn out. I just ordered new pedals and a carbon seat post today. It is slowly getting more comfortable and set up just the way I like, (seat swap out will be next ).

I'll also have to find some carbon forks that will handle my 700c x 40c (or up to 42c?) tires before its all said and done.