Couple months ago I got an oval chain ring from Wolf tooth. And as far as one by drivetrains go I am now a believer in adding one of those to the front. It really smooths up the pedal stroke.
TiGeo wrote:Bike came with 50/34 and a 11-28...went to 1x 42 with a 11-40...love it. Yeah, the jumps are larger in a few spots but it's not a big deal to me. Have considered going to a 11-36 with a 38 to tighten up the spacing but will loose a little higher end which probably isn't a big deal for the type of riding I do so I stick with what I have.
Really like the 11-36 with 38 for my riding. There is a jump between the 3rd and 2nd smallest cog, but I spend most of my flat riding in the 3rd cog, which I find a sweet spot.
TiGeo wrote:Not too many 11 speed 11-36 cassettes out there..Sram makes one but it seems hard to find as does Sunrace..again...not common.
I don't think the 11 x 36 is hard to find at all. Shimano just doesn't make one. When I ask my LBS to find one he had it in a couple of days. Sram 11 x 36(he might even had it in stock I can't remember)and then hooked up the road link with that.
I still don't have my question answered though. Can anybody tell me what when I am in the 2-3 tallest gears with the road link and stop pedaling the drive train makes a jerky feeling. I need to decide which Roker to buy and if I had to go to the 11 x 36 and 2x that I have now on the Tamland I sure wouldn't be a happy camper.
Zurichman wrote: Can anybody tell me what when I am in the 2-3 tallest gears with the road link and stop pedaling the drive train makes a jerky feeling.
You get like a little kick in the pedals when you stop pedaling? Usually that's a sticky cassette body.
You get like a little kick in the pedals when you stop pedaling? Usually that's a sticky cassette body.
Thanks for that info drwelby. I am not sure that is it though. It's a rather new cassette. I will try getting it clean though. My thought is that the LBS has the chain too long or short and it isn't liking that combination. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks for that info drwelby. I am not sure that is it though. It's a rather new cassette. I will try getting it clean though. My thought is that the LBS has the chain too long or short and it isn't liking that combination. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks Zman
Zman,
I believe drwelby is referring to the freehub that the cassette is mounted on. It contains the mechanism that ratchets when you coast. If that's sticky then it will transfer some energy to the chain that you're feeling.
Thanks for that info drwelby. I am not sure that is it though. It's a rather new cassette. I will try getting it clean though. My thought is that the LBS has the chain too long or short and it isn't liking that combination. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks Zman
Cassette has nothing to do with it. The proper terminology is a sticky "freehub". The cassette is nothing more than a fixed set of gears with no moving parts. The part that it slides onto is the freehub body. That houses the bearings and the ratcheting pawls to allow you to stop pedaling and coast.
I get it and it causes my chain to jump off. Combination tight freehub and heavy cassette; I don't notice it with my lighter CX racing cassette (Ultegra 11-32). My new DT350s do it but I assume they will loosen up as they get used.
I'd also check to make sure both derailleur pulleys are spinning freely.
Just to confirm, you're seeing this problem when you're in the big chainring and the three smallest cogs?
Yes actually it is probably in the 2 smallest cogs. So now my next question is how could the free hub body be sticking already as I doubt this bike has more than 250 miles on it. It could be sticking new from the factory.
I log all my miles into bikejournal.com a free site.
miles on bike something like 568.5 Granted Kansas Pony Express 75 miler was really dusty and maybe 2-3 times in some heavy rain.
If it's pretty new it could just be tight seals and need to break in. Maybe it needs some lubrication, or the hub is adjusted too tight. Though to answer your original concern, I doubt it has anything to do with the RoadLink.
You get like a little kick in the pedals when you stop pedaling? Usually that's a sticky cassette body.
Took the bike to the LBS today. No sticky free wheel hub. Looks like since the road link was put on there is pressure on road link deraileur and when you stop pedaling real quick the chain drops causing the kick. His suggestion to fix the problem was putting on a mountain bike deraileur but that costs $150 just in parts. Probably not going that route as I only notice this while out riding on the road. Shortening the chain isn't an option as the lower gears wouldn't work then.
Took the bike to the LBS today. No sticky free wheel hub. Looks like since the road link was put on there is pressure on road link deraileur and when you stop pedaling real quick the chain drops causing the kick. His suggestion to fix the problem was putting on a mountain bike deraileur but that costs $150 just in parts. Probably not going that route as I only notice this while out riding on the road. Shortening the chain isn't an option as the lower gears wouldn't work then.
Zman
Do you do your own work? What kind of derailleur was that? My SLX clutch derailleur cost me 60 bucks or something like that. Sure it's not an XT but it is a nice one and works flawless.
Do you do your own work? What kind of derailleur was that? My SLX clutch derailleur cost me 60 bucks or something like that. Sure it's not an XT but it is a nice one and works flawless.
No I don't do my own work but guessing that was the XT he just looked at the price on it.
You can not run a mtb derailleur with a clutch with Shimano road shifters...period. The only clutch option for Shimano is to run a XTR DI r. der. with DI shifters. The only true clutch option is Sram for 1x road. I have this same issue and I just easy off the power when I am in the small cogs and don't have much drama with it anymore. I also run a Praxis chain guide which helps keep things from going pear shaped.
drwelby wrote:Based on the price it probably includes a Tanpan to convert the cable pull ratio.
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\nThat’s probably right. TiGeo is right. My SLX is on my bike with Jones bars. On my wolverine I run Sram mtb clutch rear and and happy with it. Even the x7 derailleur only cost me around 70-75 bucks I think. That was 2 years ago
