I did a search and couldn't find anything. Im going to start building a gravel bike and I am having a big fight with myself. Do I go with mechanical or hydraulic disk brake. I want to also get in to bike packing. I have hydraulic on all of my mountain bikes and never had an issue but I think what if I'm in the boonies and have a problem. What's the thoughts
The bike packing element would suggest simpler is better, mechanical. I've used TRP Spyres in the past and currently Paul Klampers in terms of full mechanical.
But...
If you want to retain the hydro performance and the self centering pads that wet calipers provide take a look at TRP HY/RD. Mechanically actuated hydraulics.
My $.02: I'm sure that most of the more experienced dirt riders will assure you that all other things being equal - hydraulic's are the way to go. Like you, I was confused myself, while building up a new gravel bike recently. I had a less than one year old SRAM Red eTap Wifli gear set with cable actuated brake shifters that I wanted to use. At the time, the eTap HRD hydraulic shifters were hard to find as a separate component, and very expensive. I opted for TRP Spyre mech. calipers instead, with 160mm rotors front and back. The Spyre's were installed with compression free cables by an expert bike mechanic. I've already put about 400 miles on the bike under various conditions. While I'm sure that hydraulic brakes would be superior, I've found the Spyre's have been more than adequate. Besides, they weight about 1/2lb less than the HRD calipers, and are very easy to adjust and maintain with simple tools which I carry in my seat bag. My recommendation - especially if you are new to the dirt game like me- good mech. calipers work well enough. You can always upgrade to hydraulics later. Spend your money on the best frame, wheels, and tires -- then worry about hydraulic vs. mech brakes. If you do go with mech. discs, I would recommend 160mm rotors front and back, and compression free brake cables.
I already have the frame. Went with a steel Niner. Got the wheelset built already also. The money I was going to put into a season ski pass is going to the bike build.
\nThis will be my first purpose built gravel bike. I am current riding my Drummond steel frame bike but the drawback is I can go over 25 for tire size and it's a bit rough one the dirt roads around Stowe Vt
I have hydros and mechanicals. I have Hayes CX experts on my gravel/packing bike. When bike packing I always bring and extra brake cable and pad set. I have never had an issue with hydros, but maybe that is because I don't take them bike packing. Besides mechanicals work just fine.
Clymber14 wrote:I already have the frame. Went with a steel Niner. Got the wheelset built already also. The money I was going to put into a season ski pass is going to the bike build. This will be my first purpose built gravel bike. I am current riding my Drummond steel frame bike but the drawback is I can go over 25 for tire size and it's a bit rough one the dirt roads around Stowe Vt
Love Stowe - classic New England skiing. Sounds like you have some budget issues. TRP Spyre's are a good, and relatively inexpensive choice. The Spyre's move both pads rather than having a fixed pad and a moving pad. Theoretically this should give more even pad wear -- but I doubt it makes much difference. I was also considering the Hy/rd's; but I felt that if I go hydraulic - I want the benefit of hydraulic brake lines. So far, I'm delighted with the Spyre's. One caution - don't judge the brakes by your first ride. It takes awhile - or few very hard stops for the pads to bed.
bobknh wrote: I was also considering the Hy/rd's; but I felt that if I go hydraulic - I want the benefit of hydraulic brake lines.
I ran Hy/Rd calipers for part of my time in Colorado and absolutely loved them. You can set these up quite easily to emulate a full hydro system with compressionless housing. So close that it would fool some people in a Pepsi challenge. Amazing that Hy/Rd began life as Parabox just 5 years ago. Remeber that?
The danger of full hydro out in the wild is the connection. The lines are vulnerable to rock strikes and snags, depending on how aggro your bikepacking routes are. Had a friend completely lose front brakes at Tour Divide from a random rock hit and rode half the course with just the rear working. Now rides full mechanical only for bike camping. There is a lot of merit to be able to completely field service brakes out in the boonies.
Not really sure if it's a budget issue. You know the saying. Happy spouse happy house. If I dumped 800+ on the season pass AND built the bike my budget issue would be the alimony payment
My advice is I see people say about bedding the brake pads in. I though that was my problem when I first bought my 2016 Raleigh Tamland 1. That wasn't the case at all. The rear brake bad wasn't adjusted right in that the rear pad was open way too far. I had my bike put together @ the final phase by a Raleigh dealer and that is something he didn't check or go over. After that was done at my end I have had no trouble with my Spyre mechanical brakes.
What's all the worry about hydraulic brakes from a reliability/durability standpoint? I can't think of even one first-hand account of a rider doing serious damage to a set of hydraulic brakes--maybe the odd broken lever, but I haven't known anyone to tear a line off.
GSPChilliwack wrote:What's all the worry about hydraulic brakes from a reliability/durability standpoint? I can't think of even one first-hand account of a rider doing serious damage to a set of hydraulic brakes--maybe the odd broken lever, but I haven't known anyone to tear a line off.
Good point. While I advocated mech. disks as being adequate, obviously hydraulic's have been around for awhile in the mountain bike world, and proven to be reliable as well as durable. I expect as the road bike world evolves towards disc brakes, hydraulic calipers will become standard. To be honest, I made sure that my new custom gravel bike would be easy to convert to hydraulic's, once a more affordable option is available. But an additional expense of over $1,100 for eTap HRD shifters and calipers was excessive.
GSPChilliwack wrote:What's all the worry about hydraulic brakes from a reliability/durability standpoint? I can't think of even one first-hand account of a rider doing serious damage to a set of hydraulic brakes--maybe the odd broken lever, but I haven't known anyone to tear a line off.
First let me say that all my bikes have hydraulic brakes, so I am not hating on them. But I was on a night ride with a friend when his Hayes front brake sprayed hydraulic fluid all over the trail. It was not a fun ride for him, riding singletrack at night with no front brake. So I can understand people who are wary of hydraulics, especially when they are out in the middle of nowhere. I'll also say that I have used BB7s, and they are great brakes if set up properly. There really is very little benefit to running hydraulics over mechanical on a gravel bike unless you ride a lot of singletrack on it. On a mountain bike where you do a lot of heavy braking hydraulics are a lot more useful.
I've seen a hydraulic brake line sheared at the lever from a crash (endo). But in my mind, the kind a incident that's going to kill a hydraulic line on a ride seems MUCH LESS likely on a gravel bike than on a XC or freeride.
This thread has me recalling that I started mountain biking with simple Deore DX cantis and road riding the big climbs of CO on Campy Chorus side pulls. I don't remember having any stopping issues with either back in the day. But I do remember being able to do all of the work on them myself. Including 50 miles from home.
Anyway, I run the TRP Spires and have zero complaints. Put some time into getting them adjusted well and stay frosty during break in. They are excellent brakes.
I like 160mm front and 140 mm rear for gravel. But that's me.
First let me say that all my bikes have hydraulic brakes, so I am not hating on them. But I was on a night ride with a friend when his Hayes front brake sprayed hydraulic fluid all over the trail. It was not a fun ride for him, riding singletrack at night with no front brake. So I can understand people who are wary of hydraulics, especially when they are out in the middle of nowhere. I'll also say that I have used BB7s, and they are great brakes if set up properly. There really is very little benefit to running hydraulics over mechanical on a gravel bike unless you ride a lot of singletrack on it. On a mountain bike where you do a lot of heavy braking hydraulics are a lot more useful.
The price of hydraulics is steep for the road/gravel. I guess it's a function of marrying the brake/master cylinder and the shifter. I wish there was a Shimano SLX equivalent hydraulic brake for the road!
I'm thinking of going down that route as well. Do you have any experience of them in comparison to full hydraulics?
Negative. Just did lots of review/forum reading prior to purchase.
Went down that route as I'm using Sram Red 10speed shifters. I didn't like the large 'antler' look of road hydraulic ones, along with their (and caliper) weight.
Very happy, coming from rim brakes.
Compressionless housing, along with good pads and rotors makes for a very smooth system.
I have BB7 on my MTB and hydro on my Slate. Both work just fine. I hate the long hoods on the Shimano 685 levers. Considered buying mechanical levers for the shorter hoods and coverting the Slate to Spyres but I'm mostly a drops or tops rider.
Hydros are outstanding, but the ease and simplicity of mech discs make them the choice for backpacking.
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\nI'll echo the sentiments about TRP Spyres. Better all around than any other mechs in my opinion. No they're not as strong as hydro's but they are strong, quiet, and bulletproof. Oh yeah, they're also cheap!
\nFor mech discs, there's no other choice in my opinion
