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I like having a front tire with a little more bite sometimes when I’m doing mostly gravel.
Some possible tire combos:
Maxis rambler rear, Maxis Ravenger front
G-One all around rear, G-one Bite front (you basically have 3 choices – slick, all around, and more aggressive “bite”)
Gravel king SK rear, Gravel King mud front (although that is more for wet conditions)
The combinations are endless. Personally I don’t worry too much about knobs in the center, it’s the knobs on the edges that I want. Bicycle Quarterly stated that you don’t need knobs at all on gravel, you just need volume. But in my experience, the breakaway characteristics are MUCH different with knobs. Slick tires give out suddenly, knobs are more progressive and easier to catch.
That said – in my case it is more about technique. I used to race mountain bikes in all conditions on semi slicks. Concentrating on a really smooth cadence and smooth bike handling, I could do just about anything I needed to.
monkeyrider wrote:You might look at the WTB Nano 40. I just bought a set of WTB Riddler 45s. Not sure if they'd fit on a Tamland.
monkeyrider wrote:The chunkier the gravel or for more rugged road conditions, I would go with the biggest tire I can run. I'm not sure why he recommended a 35c tire if you are currently running a 40. Maybe the Alluvinn is only available in a 35 and it has a more aggressive tread pattern.
You might look at the WTB Nano 40. I just bought a set of WTB Riddler 45s. Not sure if they'd fit on a Tamland. I've used the Clement MSO 40 and the Conti Speed 42s. Both are great but don't have a lot of traction. I like them because they are high volume and roll fast.
PSI is something you have to experiment with for the conditions and your size.
chas wrote:Zman,I like having a front tire with a little more bite sometimes when I’m doing mostly gravel.
Some possible tire combos:
Maxis rambler rear, Maxis Ravenger front
G-One all around rear, G-one Bite front (you basically have 3 choices – slick, all around, and more aggressive “bite”)
Gravel king SK rear, Gravel King mud front (although that is more for wet conditions)
The combinations are endless. Personally I don’t worry too much about knobs in the center, it’s the knobs on the edges that I want. Bicycle Quarterly stated that you don’t need knobs at all on gravel, you just need volume. But in my experience, the breakaway characteristics are MUCH different with knobs. Slick tires give out suddenly, knobs are more progressive and easier to catch.
That said – in my case it is more about technique. I used to race mountain bikes in all conditions on semi slicks. Concentrating on a really smooth cadence and smooth bike handling, I could do just about anything I needed to.
Durt wrote:Wow, you're 200 and running 35 and 40psi? I did a race on very rough gravel this weekend at 40psi on the rear and bottomed it twice when I only weigh 163. I usually run about 35 but went to 40 due to how rough it was. I've had really good luck with a Kenda Small Block 8 in a 35 tubeless and now with Maxxis Rambler 40's tubeless. Like the maxxis over the kenda.
Could you talk about what you mean by 'felt like the rear was losing traction downhill'? If breaking loose while climbing, try to stay seated.
Front wheel breaking loose could be a matter of technique. When the gravel is loose and deep, you kind of have to let the bike drive itself. Loose grip on the bars and just go with it. Don't fight it and try to wrestle it around and steer it. Just go with the little weaves side to side, just follow the bike where it wants to go while keeping steady pressure/cadence. Within reason of course if there are others close around you. Like riding in sand. Descending in loose conditions, get your weight off the seat and back, use primarily the rear brake and feather it. Try to stay off the front brake or use it lightly.
Fatter tire up front will give you more cushion and you can run a lower pressure for more grip. Some friends of mine do the 40c in front, 35c in rear. Panaracer Gravel King is the most popular tire around here. Maxxis Ramblers a close second.
I’m thinking it is as much about technique and bike geometry as everything. If its dry, I don’t find that tread makes much difference (aside from how quickly they break away or crash). Either that or just slow down, lol.
I find that tread helps in mud (if they clear the mud) and grass and leaves. More of a fall thing for me.
I think your tire pressures are fine. I tend to run softer up front as my bike has a 40F60R weight balance. I want similar “tire drop” front rear. Don’t go softer in the rear or you will bottom out.
Yes, in the summer I often just leave a 32mm slick on the rear for road or gravel (unless it is real rough). I’ll put a 28mm race tire on the front for the road and a 40mm rambler on the front for gravel (giving me a more compliant ride and better ability to slide).
But unless the race is smooth hardpack (or paved) I would just stick the 40mm tire on the back too. Around here gravel roads are like rough asphalt in the summer so the slick works fine, but unless it is hard and smooth I don’t need slicks. IMHO, there is no point in having a tire that is smoother than the riding surface – so on old/rough aslphalt or crushed limestone (or anything worse) small tread isn’t a problem.
For the fall, I’m planning on doing a 54mm 650b mountain bike tire up front on nasty days – that will match well with a 40mm 700c rear. Most front forks have lots of clearance if you really want to go fatter. This would be my goto for sand (we have more coastline in Michigan than the entire west coast combined!).
(I wrote that before I read Durt's comments above, but sounds like he is saying the same thing).
Zurichman wrote:
How do you handle it when it is really rutty and you are getting thrown all over the place. It probably doesn't help me much as on all these races you come across unknown areas instead of riding something you are familiar with. I am just trying to get my bike set up so it does well in chunky gravel or what I guess I would call heavy or rutty gravel.
Sounds like you are going too fast!
You could try doing some mountain biking, or something where you get used to sliding a bit. Get comfortable on dirt just locking up the rear wheel and stopping with the rear locked (actually I find grass is an easy and safe(ish) place to try this). I don’t think tires are going to help much.
Technique wise – the normal reaction is to tense up. The correct reaction is to loosen up – soft touch – let the bike do what it wants with soft nudging (like horseback riding!). Off the saddle, arms and legs bent to absorb anything and of course stay within your limits. If it is loose enough sometimes you just have to point the bike in the direction and let it go – but don’t run any stop signs! On some downhills (mostly mountainbiking) I know I’m not going to be able to stop because the traction isn’t there. If I have a good line of sight, I commit. On the road I’m concerned about traffic and rules of the road.
If this is an issue for you, the only thing that will really work tire wise is to run as fat a tire as you can, or get a bike with front shock.
chas wrote:Sounds like you are going too fast!
You could try doing some mountain biking, or something where you get used to sliding a bit. Get comfortable on dirt just locking up the rear wheel and stopping with the rear locked (actually I find grass is an easy and safe(ish) place to try this). I don’t think tires are going to help much.
Technique wise – the normal reaction is to tense up. The correct reaction is to loosen up – soft touch – let the bike do what it wants with soft nudging (like horseback riding!). Off the saddle, arms and legs bent to absorb anything and of course stay within your limits. If it is loose enough sometimes you just have to point the bike in the direction and let it go – but don’t run any stop signs! On some downhills (mostly mountainbiking) I know I’m not going to be able to stop because the traction isn’t there. If I have a good line of sight, I commit. On the road I’m concerned about traffic and rules of the road.
If this is an issue for you, the only thing that will really work tire wise is to run as fat a tire as you can, or get a bike with front shock.
Yeah, I have run into that situation a couple of times this year.
When it happens, my body goes real limp (stiff = crash), I try to let the bike do what it wants to do, coax it to do what I want to do, brake pretty hard with the rear and gently with the front (on gravel), and if necessary I’ll take an “off road” excursion.
Unfortunately my girlfriend does not have this muscle memory and she biffed (wearing a tank top, no helmet or gloves). Not sure I’ll get her back on gravel any time soon. I had her son on the back of my tandem at the time – at least he didn’t get hurt!
With tires, I may not be the best as I like minimal knobs. From what I have seen of those tires, they look pretty similar, and the MSO is going to be fine for dry gravel.
chas wrote:I use Conti 4-season 32mm tires in the summer. Tough, supple, long lasting. I don't put tubes in mine though (shame on me).
Smooth panaracer gravel king or pasela are some good options.
Zurichman wrote: I might try 45/40
Thanks again
Zman
dangle wrote:
Increasing to that would make your problem worse. If you're not smacking the rim on rocks or larger pieces of gravel, you're fine. It literally feels like hitting a rock with your rim when you 'bottom out' so it's pretty obvious when it happens.
I agree with those saying you should ride the widest tires you can safely fit in your bike for the conditions you're talking about. Having a little bit of squish (that feels like a flat tire on a 'standard' road bike tire) is perfect. Sounds like you're on the right track. If you like your Kenda Flintridge tires and Kenda is supporting events you do, sticking with them doesn't sound bad. They have the Flintridge in both a 40 and 45. I wouldn't go smaller than 40. 45 won't roll noticeable faster on smooth stuff. It will noticeably smooth out bumps and grip loose stuff better at appropriate pressures.
